Suwon
Suwon neighbors Seoul, and is about 30 km / 19 mi away
It has a population of 1.23 million people
It’s best known for its historical sites and as a K-drama filming location
Suwon, or Suwon-si, is a city just south of Seoul, making it a popular destination for a day trip or short stay. I spent a full day in the city, ate their famous galbi (short ribs), explored local markets and streets, visited one of the sites on their historic Hwaseong Fortress wall, and checked out their photogenic Starfield Suwon Library.
I’ll share these places and experiences here, in case you’re looking for Suwon travel ideas.
If you want to get a feel for Suwon, I made a video of my first visit:
How to get there
There are a few train options to get to Suwon Station, depending on where you’re coming from and your budget.
The most affordable and perhaps convenient route is by taking Seoul Subway Line 1. If you’re able to catch their Express train, it’ll cut the commuting time down to about 45 minutes.
Other options include the KTX (fastest train), ITX-Saemaeul, and Mugunghwa (regular), which typically depart from Seoul Station and can cut the commute down to about 30 minutes.
After arriving in Suwon, the easiest way to get around is by bus and walking.
About Suwon
As the capital of Gyeonggi Province, Suwon is its largest city with roughly 1.23 million people. Typically, it's biggest draw is the UNESCO-listed Hwaseong Fortress, which is a stone wall with gates that extend for 5.7 km / 3.54 mi, and dates back to the 18th century.
In recent years, Suwon has also become known as a set location where several popular K-dramas were filmed.
For “Our Beloved Summer”, the Haenggung-dong Mural Village served as a backdrop.
In “Twenty-Five Twenty-One”, a great drama if I may add, some scenes take place at the Hwaseong Fortress wall’s Namporu, or Southern Artillery Bastion.
The father’s restaurant in “Extraordinary Attorney Woo“ is a Japanese restaurant located in the city. The homes of the two main characters in “Lovely Runner” are in the Haenggung-dong neighborhood, and there are scenes at Hwahongmun Gate and the Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion.
“Queen of Tears” was also shot at the Starfield Library, located in the Starfield Suwon shopping mall.
Suwon is also known for galbi, or beef short ribs. They’re said to focus on highlighting the beef’s flavor through a marinade that is primarily salt-based instead of the more common soy sauce-based ones. They’re also cut in thicker pieces. This dish likely became popular due to cattle markets being established in the area, providing good access to quality beef.
Where I stayed
I visited Suwon as a day trip from Seoul. Areas such as Mapo, where I stayed at the Roynet Hotel Seoul Mapo, are convenient as they give easy access to both of Seoul’s airports and to Seoul Station, where you can transfer to catch a train to Suwon.
Things to do
Depending on what you’re aiming to do and how fast you get through things, I’d recommend spending a full day or staying the night to explore the central Suwon area.
Traditional markets
Suwon has several traditional markets located right next to each other, making it seem like it’s one big market. Some of these markets include Motgol Market, Minarigwang Market, and Paldalmun Market.
The atmosphere here is bustling with stands lining the walking alleys selling basically everything; fruits, vegetables, seafood, fried items, banchan (side dishes), snacks, healthcare products, clothing and more.
Experiencing these local markets are always great as they give you a glimpse of typical everyday life for residents. You can also likely find a snack to eat or something to take out for a meal or to take home. We found a small shop that was making sesame oil on site using sesame seeds grown in Korea, so we picked up a couple of the classic, label-less bottles.
Suwon Chicken Street
A historical street dedicated to Suwon’s culinary craft, Suwon Chicken Street is located right next to Paldalmun Market and, of course, is centered around chicken. Numerous chicken restaurants here cook fried chicken using iron cauldrons instead of typical deep fryers.
Even if you’re not stopping for chicken, this street, which is said to be a major spot in Korea’s chicken and beer culture since the 1970s, is retro, photogenic, and worth a stroll.
Hwaseong Fortress
Built between 1794 and 1796, Hwaseong Fortress is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It extends for 5.7 km / 3.54 mi around the city, and is frequently visible just by walking around.
The wall is said to represent a shift in technology and politics as it took innovations in engineering to build it in only 2 years and to separate and challenge the capital at the time, which is modern-day Seoul.
We explored the Janganmun Gate area on the northern side. Going up from the tunnel is a bit steep, but there’s a walkway up top that makes for a pleasant stroll.
Suwon Starfield Library at Starfield Suwon shopping mall
Located next to Hwaseo Station, which is conveniently located on Seoul Subway Line 1, is Starfield Suwon shopping mall, a mega-mall that spans about 7 floors. The mall is beautifully designed and features some of the trendiest shops for fashion, beauty and lifestyle.
At the center of the mall spanning the 4th to 7th floors is the Starfield Library, or Byeolmadang Library. Bookshelves 22 meters / 72.18 feet and surround an atrium 360-degrees. At the center is a tiered free-seating area, and seats with desks can also be found around the library, overlooking it.
The concept is somewhat similar to the Starfield Library in Gangnam, Seoul, but the Suwon one is a lot bigger and in my opinion, a better space to spend time in.
On the 5th floor is a cafe, Vinyl, that features a coffee selection along with thousands of records to listen to as you sip. We took a sofa seat that was equipped with two record players and overlooked the library, and enjoyed a relaxing cafe moment.
To see more of the the places above, definitely check out my Suwon video on YouTube.
Where to eat
Kabojung
An iconic restaurant in Suwon, Kabojung specializes in galbi, the grilled beef short ribs that the city is best known for. There are actually 3 entire buildings at an intersection that’s part of the flagship location, headed by a nationally acclaimed chef.
We walked in for lunch in the Kabojung 2 building. Inside was large with a slightly classic, high-end feel to it. Staff are very attentive and they serve an incredible array of delicious dishes, taking up almost all of the large table.
The galbi was mildly flavored and delicious, and this meal set the tone for Suwon perfectly.
http://www.kabojung.co.kr/ [K]
Vinyl
It’s retro meets new at Vinyl, a cafe centered around listening to records while enjoying your coffee. Order a drink, pick something from the shelf that you’d like to listen to, and listen to it on the record player at your seat.
The Suwon location of Vinyl is located on the 5th floor of the Starfield shopping mall, and overlooks the Starfield Library atrium.
Great concept and a fantastic way to sit back and relax.
Keep in touch:
Neighboring Seoul, Suwon is known for a UNESCO World Heritage site, galbi beef short ribs, and for being a K-drama shooting location for many popular titles.