Gongdeok / Mapo, Seoul
Gongdeok is a business district in central Mapo
It’s a commuter hub, making it a very convenient area to stay
There are local markets, cafes and good eateries
Geongdeok, or Mapo, is an area of Seoul that’s almost guaranteed to be overlooked by most tourists. Even locals may view it as simply a commuter hub and a place to transfer trains on their way to and from work.
However, it’s this convergence of transportation options that make it a neighborhood of good finds and one that’s great to stay while visiting. I’ve stayed in this area on two of my trips to Seoul because of how convenient it is to get to other destinations.
How to get there
The two closest stations are Gongdeok Station and Mapo Station.
Gongdeok Station is a stop for Seoul Subway Lines 5 and 6, the Gyeongui–Jungang Line, and the AREX airport line.
This means destinations such as Sindang, Itaewon, Yeouido, Mangwon, the Euljiro area (via Jongno 3(sam)-ga or Euljiro 4(sa)-ga), the Dongdaemun History & Culture Park (DDP), and both Incheon and Gimpo International Airports are all directly accessible from this area.
About Gongdeok
Gongdeok/Mapo is seen as both a commercial and residential hub. It’s an area that blends modern and traditional, having both towers lining wide streets that span 4 lanes each way and traditional markets where locals cozy up in a small space to get a bite to eat.
It’s also a transportation hub with direct access to whichever airport you need to go to, as well as subway lines to a lot of the most popular destinations.
This area doesn’t draw tourists to it like the more popular neighborhoods in Seoul, but that’s a good thing. It’s calm yet bustling, has a lot of what you want and need, and lets you get to other places easily.
Where I stayed
Roynet Hotel Seoul Mapo
On two of my trips to Seoul, I’ve stayed here at the Roynet Hotel Seoul Mapo. It’s a Japanese hotel brand so it was already familiar.
One thing I noticed during my stays in Korea is that Korean bathrooms can be hit or miss, from Japanese and American perspectives. This hotel’s bathrooms are more like ones you’d find in decent hotels in Japan.
Service is good, the hotel is modern, and being located in the middle of Gongdeok and Mapo Stations, it’s easy to access both when one was more convenient for our destination.
Other hotels we considered were the GLAD Mapo and the Shilla Stay Mapo.
What we did
Gongdeok Market
A traditional food market in Seoul, Gongdeok Market has multiple eateries and food stands. It’s most famous for jokbal (pig's trotters), but also has items such as jeon (various items coated in flour and egg wash, then pan-fried), and meat.
I went to a stall near the main street that was full of different kinds of jeon, from shrimp to luncheon meat, from beef to mixtures with vegetables. Just pick the ones you want, place them in your tray, hand it over to one of the staff and they’ll pack it up for you as takeout.
If you’ve been to Hawaii and have had meat jun, you can try the Korean version here.
Emart
One of the leading hypermarket chains, Emart is a must visit for, well, anything and everything. While there are many locations, the Emart in the Gongdeok/Mapo area is large, making it a perfect place to pick up things to try or take back home.
This location has 4 shopping floors:
2nd Floor: Starbucks, a lifestyle/home goods store, and a food court.
1st Floor (Street level): Home appliances, electronics, apparel, toys, and stationery.
Basement 1: Packaged foods, liquor, beverages, cosmetics, and everyday household items.
Basement 2: Fresh groceries, meat, seafood, baked goods, and instant/frozen items.
The closest comparison that I can think of for Americans is Target… but better.
There are a couple of videos I have made where I spend some time in the Gongdeok/Mapo area. Here’s one:
Where to eat
Fritz Coffee Company (Dohwa)
A gem of a cafe in the area. Fritz Coffee Company is one of the coffee brands that locals will recommend as they are quality-focus is packaged with excellent branding.
It began in 2014 by a team that included a barista champion, a green coffee buyer, and a baker, and the experience you get reflects this area-specific commitment. Baked items are always fresh and availability depends on the time of day, their ordering is smooth and their coffee is great.
The Gongdeok area has alternative cafe options, but Fritz is the standout and I’ve been back multiple times.
https://m.fritz.co.kr/ [K]
Hanyang Selleongtang
Fantastic hole-in-the-wall spot for seolleongtang, or beef soup. Down an alley, you wouldn’t go unless you were seeking it out. And seek it out is what you should do.
This is a very local spot and one of the area’s secrets that most tourists don’t know. The soup is served very hot, so it’s perfect on a cold or rainy day. Add in salt to taste as well as some kimchi, and you’ll have a customized rich, savory beef soup. The beef slices are tender and cooked to perfection, and together with the green onions and noodles, it is addicting.
I’m already a repeat customer and would love to repeat again.
Keep in touch:
An overlooked commercial and transportation hub, the Gongdeok/Mapo area is one of the most convenient areas to stay in Seoul.