Travel Log Barrett Ishida Travel Log Barrett Ishida

Seongsu, Seoul

One of Seoul’s most trendy neighborhoods, nicknamed the “Brooklyn of Seoul”.

  • Seongsu is a trendy part of Seoul that attracts the young and hip

  • Formerly an industrial area, it’s now becoming a hub for cafes and fashion

  • It’s called the “Brooklyn of Seoul”


With roughly 9.5 million people, almost 1/5 of the country’s population, Seoul is the primary destination in South Korea.

Like any large city, there are multiple areas that have a strong appeal to them, and one of Seoul’s is Seongsu due to its “newtro” (new + retro) vibe.

If doing a little bit of shopping and exploring the amazing local cafe culture sounds like it’s your thing, you’ll want to visit this area. I’ve been fortunate to visit Seoul a few times now, and Seongsu has become one of my favorite places in the city.

How to get there

The main station is Seongsu Station, and it’s accessible on Seoul Subway Line 2. The line also hits other popular stations such as Gangnam, Euljiro 3(sam)-ga, Euljiro 4(sa)-ga, Dongdaemun History & Culture Park and others.

Seongsu

One of the things that’s immediately noticeable when arriving at Seongsu is that it doesn’t feel like a place that was meant to become a popular destination.

The main station is on the smaller side, there aren’t many tall, modern buildings, and the streets themselves are far from being the most well-maintained in the city.

Seongsu is traditionally an industrial area known for making shoes and other goods. On the surface, this is how most of the area looks even now, but open the doors to a few of these buildings and you may be surprised.

On the other side of many of these industrial facades are restaurants and cafes. I’ve been to a couple of great ones (introduced near the bottom of this page), and they’re absolutely worth visiting. The interiors have been gutted and machinery and workers have been replaced with artistic interiors, delicious smells and people socializing.

Shopping is also a popular thing to do here as there are a few shopping complexes and boutiques.

I visited Seongsu in 2019 and then again in 2023, and its rise in popularity could be felt.

Here are a few places I’ve visted:

Seongsu Yeonbang

Once a chemical plant, the building was renovated and repurposed to become a shopping and dining complex. Most of the stores surround a courtyard which acts as the main entrance.

One of the notable stores is Thingool Market, a lifestyle shop on the first floor that carries everything from fashion accessories to home interior items and dishes. It’s a good one-stop shop if you’re looking to bring back something for yourself or a friend from your trip to Seoul.

LCDC

What is now a modern commercial complex was once an auto repair shop and shoe manufacturing company. It’s pretty difficult to see any traces of them, and what was probably a place full of blue collar workers seemed to be a gathering place for the hip and modern.

A cafe with outdoor seating in the courtyard is on the first floor with some trendy fashion and lifestyle shops upstairs. There’s also a open hangout area at the top, which is also directly accessible from a stairway that goes down to the street corner. This provided a decent spot to do some people watching down below.

https://en.lcdc-seoul.com/

MAP

Boutiques

Just going for a stroll around Seongsu will lead you to come across interesting boutiques and people.

Being that it’s a trendy neighborhood, you will find a lot of locals dressed up in the latest fashion and a bunch of shops to browse. Here are a few sights from Seongsu:


Cafe Onion

Possibly the hippest cafe chain in the city with locations that are converted old buildings. Their spot in Seongsu is in a gutted 1970s building that served as a former factory.

Cafe Onion Seongsu manages to balance old and new perfectly, and in doing this, makes for an extremely photogenic hang out. There are multiple seating areas, nooks and a rooftop as well. Their coffees and artisanal, homemade pastries and baked goods are tasty.

Great place to stop by when exploring the area and to take pictures.

TripAdvisor
MAP

 

Grandpa Factory

Built in an old factory, Grandpa Factory has three floors and outdoor seating so you can enjoy a meal, coffee or alcohol.

This cafe is known for its appearance in popular drama, “Vincenzo”, but its vibe and overall atmosphere does itself justice.

With ample seating inside and outside, including a literal treehouse space, Grandpa Factory not only has good food and drinks but it also showcases how old buildings can be successfully repurposed and utilized.

This was a great place that you’re sure to like.

MAP

 

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Seoul, Korea: The Food Tour

Seoul food recommendations after two trips eating at places recommended by Japanese and Koreans.

Korean yukke - Hanwoo beef with raw egg

A trip to Seoul is all about the amazing food. Strong flavors, lots of spices, it’s hard to ask for more.

On my first two trips to the city, I’ve realized that following Japanese travel guides and blogs about Seoul are a lot better than English ones.

It makes sense - Seoul hasn’t been a major tourist destination for Westerners for all that long, and Japanese tourists had been exploring their neighbor from before them. There’s even a Japanese word-of-mouth site with reviews for everything from restaurants to shopping to clinics. [J]

Most of the food spots that I’ve been to and have loved have been from Japanese sources, a group known to have high expectations. These are some of the restaurants and cafes that I recommend:


RESTAURANTS

 

dong myeonok house

Legit Korean kalbi. You know it has to be when the only other non-Koreans there were American students… with their Korean host family.

Dong Myeonok House is located up a hill in the seemingly upscale residential area of Seongbuk. There’s no major businesses or subway stations around it, so we took a taxi and went for lunch.

We ordered a small order of kalbi and 6-pieces of colorful mandu. The kalbi was melt-off-the-bone tender, tasty with a little hint of sweet, and I couldn’t get enough of the mandu. Thanks to my friend Daniel for the rec, I definitely recommend this place as well.

Area: Seongbuk
MAP

 

BHC

Fried chicken and beer are a thing in Korea, and they do it so well. BHC became my go-to restaurant in Korea, and I’ve managed to go there 3 times during my trips and layovers.

There’s so much flavor in each bite, especially their spicy ones. Some locations like Myeongdong’s let people eat on the outside tables and drink, others are indoors-only, and there’s an option to takeout. Either way, delicious and highly recommended.

http://www.bhc.co.kr/ [KR]
Area:
(Chain) Myeongdong, City Hall, etc.
MAP

 

YAETMAT SEOUL BULGOLGI

It’s hard to beat self-serve, all-you-can-eat sides and some tasty bulgolgi cooking in front of you. That’s why Yaetmat Seoul Bulgolgi was so good.

Located a couple blocks from Gwangheungchang metro station (광흥창역) on Line 6, Yaetmat Seoul Bulgolgi is a casual restaurant that only had locals - so you know it’s legit.

You sit on stools around a BBQ table and the staff comes by and makes sure everything is cooked properly. There’s a bar of assorted kim chee, greens, onions, garlic and more that’s free for the taking. A very casual, authentic experience and of course, tasty.

https://oldbulgogi.modoo.at [KR]
Area: Gwangheungchang
MAP

 

JINOKHWA HALMAE WONJO DAKHANMARI

This restaurant only serves one dish: Dakhanmari - Chicken hot pot. They put a pot on your table’s burner with your chicken and vegetables and it starts to cook. It’s your job to mix your dipping sauce and order extras like tteokbokki if you want.

While it’s so simple, it’s so good. There was a large crowd waiting to be seated outside, but with 3 floors of tables, the wait wasn’t that long at all. You could go to the neighboring restaurants serving the same thing, but you can’t lose with this place.

http://www.darkhanmari.co.kr
Area:
Jongno 5-ga / Dondaemun
MAP

 

YEONGCHEON YOUNGHOE

Bibimbap is one of Korea’s famous dishes, and Yeongcheon Younghoe in the upscale Cheongdam area of Gangnam was highly rated and apparently visited by celebrities.

We went for lunch and despite the restaurant being on the larger side, it was full with some waiting. The bimbap had a delicious mix of raw beef and greens - tender and fresh - mixed with rice.

A lot of the bibimbap I’ve seen at food stalls didn’t have beef, so this was a nice chance to have some that did.

https://nuon.tistory.com/209 [KR]
Area:
Cheongdam, Gangnam
MAP

 

SINSEON SEOLLEONGTANG

Really good oxtail soup still boiling in the pot. The seolleongtang oxtail soup st this chain was really good, and there’s unlimited kimchee at the table for your taking.

Service is quick and efficient. We went around noon for lunch and there was a line - it’s quite popular and has been featured in a Korean drama - but the line moved really quickly and was totally worth it.

http://www.kood.co.kr
Area:
(Chain) Myeongdong
MAP

 

DAECHI JEONG-YUG SIGDAN

When a butcher shop runs its own Korean BBQ joint, it’s going to be delicious. This is the case with Daechi.

A 15-20 minute walk from COEX shopping mall, Daechi specializes in top grade Korean beef. The beef that they serve are Hanwoo beef and rated 1++ - the highest in the Beef Marbling Standard in Korea. We ordered beef to barbeque as well as yukke, slices of raw beef mixed with raw egg. So good.

Daechi is a bit hard to find - there’s an entrance near the meat shop and it’s down some stairs (last picture, to the right). If you’re around the COEX area, it’s worth checking out.

Area: Seolleung, Gangnam
MAP

 

DAKKAL WONJONIB

Dakhanmari is probably one of the simplest Korean dishes yet it’s just so good. It’s basically a chicken in a boiling hot pot where you dip into a spicy sauce.

Compared to the more famous Jinokhwa, Dakkal Wonjonib is a smaller, more local restaurant serving the dish. They’re both fantastic, the biggest differences would be that Jinokhwa gives more dipping sauce while Dakkal Wonjonib’s broth has more chicken and garlic flavor in it.

It’s in the Seoul Station area so relatively convenient, making for a nice local option to get some good Korean chicken hot pot.

https://original1csn.modoo.at [KR]
Area:
Seoul Station
MAP

 

UKE ZAMEZIP

Raw beef mixed with raw egg, dipped in sesame oil and salt. So delicious.

We stopped by Uke Zamezip for some fresh yukhoe while on the way to Gwangjang Market for some street food. It was well worth it. The casual vibe - enjoying yukke over conversation and cheers of soju and beer, was a nice segue to sitting at the food stalls in the nearby Market.

http://www.zamezip.com [KR]
Area:
Gwangjang Market
MAP


CAFES

CAFE ONION

Possibly the hippest cafe chain in the city with locations that are converted old buildings. Their spot in Seongsu, the “Brooklyn of Seoul,” is in a gutted 1970s building that served as a former factory.

Cafe Onion Seongsu manages to balance old and new perfectly, and in doing this, makes for an extremely photogenic hang out. There are multiple seating areas, nooks and a rooftop as well. Their coffees and artisanal, homemade pastries and baked goods are tasty.

Great place to stop by when exploring the area and to take pictures.

TripAdvisor
Area:
Seongsu
MAP

 

CHA TEUL TEAHOUSE

A relaxing cafe set in a traditional Korean hanok house on top a hill in the Bukchon Hanok Village area.

Cha Teul, which means “tea-drinking garden,” is an indoor tea house built around its Korean garden. You take off your shoes before you enter, sit on the floor and enjoy some tea over relaxing views. Making the experience even better, service was very friendly.

We had patibingsu (Korean shaved ice with red beans and mochi rice cakes on top), Ssangwha tea (made of Korean medical herbs brewed for 14-15 hours), and lotus tea.

Perfect place to have a sit down and relax in the afternoon.

TripAdvisor
Area:
Bukchon
MAP

 

GALLERY SAI - BY CREATIVE ART GROUP SAI

A coffee shop in a traditional Korean house. We randomly stumbled upon Gallery SAI coming down from the Bukchon Hanok village and were pleasantly surprised.

It’s in a converted old house that blends in with much of the area. You take your shoes off and find a table, some of which are on the floor or in a room, and have tea or coffee. A little more costly than a typical coffee shop, but well worth it for the experience.

https://blog.naver.com/gallerysai [KR]
Area:
Bukchon
Map


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Seoul, Korea: A Second Trip

Returning to Seoul to explore new places and get to know the city a little better.

Somesevit (Sebitseom) building at Banpo Hangang Park illuminated at night

Somesevit (Sebitseom) building at Banpo Hangang Park illuminated at night

After my first trip to Seoul in late 2018, I knew I had to come back. Less than a year later in 2019, that happened.

This time around, I ventured to explore areas for the first time to add to my experiences in the city.

If you’re visiting for the first time, you can see what I did on my first trip, or maybe these sights are more your style.

Things to know:

  • Google Maps isn’t as useful - locations are scarce, often don’t translate from Korean, and don’t contain detailed information

  • There’s a lot of walking - With limited escalators in train stations and trains being long themselves, there’s more walking to the exits

  • Many restaurants close early on weekends, like fully closed at 8PM on a Saturday night early

Where we stayed:

Room at Hotel Gracery in Seoul

We stayed in a convenient location near the City Hall subway station on our first trip, so we decided to make our base at the hotel right next door. The Hotel Gracery is a newer hotel owned by a Japanese company, and is between City Hall and Hoehyeon subway stations, and also near the popular Namdaemun Market.

The room was a bit small, but everything was nicely kept and clean. Service is good, the toilet and shower are separate, there’s coin laundry in the lobby and a convenience store downstairs.

https://seoul.gracery.com
MAP

Here’s where we explored on my second time in the city.

Banpo Hangang Park

The Banpo Bridge Rainbow Fountain at Banpo Hangang Park

The Banpo Bridge Rainbow Fountain at Banpo Hangang Park

On the south side of the Han River is Banpo Hangang Park [MAP]. We visited in the evening where they have a festival during the warmer months featuring a bunch of food trucks and artists selling homemade crafts.

The Banpo Bridge Rainbow Fountain show is also put on, where streams of water shoot out from the bridge’s sides, illuminated by about 200 LEDs. At 570 meters long, it’s the world’s longest bridge fountain and it’s free. The shows happen every half an hour between 7:30PM-9PM.

The Somesevit (Sebitseom) buildings are illuminated with people sitting around it, enjoying drinks and each other’s company over some open mic karaoke.

People eating and drinking, listening to opem mic karaoke at a Somesevit (Sebitseom) building

People eating and drinking, listening to opem mic karaoke at a Somesevit (Sebitseom) building

Apgujeong, Gangnam

A side street in Apgujeong in Gangnam, Seoul

A side street in Apgujeong in Gangnam, Seoul

One of the popular shopping areas in the Gangnam area, Apgujeong had stores from Prada to Club Monaco, along with a lot of cafes and plastic surgery clinics. To me, it had a similar feel to Tokyo’s Aoyama area or Los Angeles’ Abbott Kinney or Melrose. It’s definitely on the upscale side.

We visited the area after stopping at the nearby Cheongdam area of Gangnam for some delicious bibimbap at Yeongcheon Younghoe.

After some window shopping, we stopped at the local Tom N Toms coffee chain for some refreshment before heading to Seongsu.

Seongsu

The industrial turned trendy area of Seongsu

The industrial turned trendy area of Seongsu

It may not seem like it, but Seongsu is a pretty trendy area for young Koreans. I learned about it while researching for client work, so I decided to check it out.

The neighborhood used to be the location of a lot of handmade shoe factories and warehouses, and those old industrial buildings are slowly being converted into artistic cafes, coffee shops and restaurants. We went to a great one called Cafe Onion (more info below).

Seongsu, while a hot spot for locals, still seems relatively unknown to tourists. I only wish we had more time and space in our stomachs so we could stay here longer.

Cafe Onion in Seongsu

Cafe Onion in Seongsu

Itaewon

A buzzing street in Itaewon

A buzzing street in Itaewon

This is somewhat of an international area of Seoul, and a lot of the restaurants and bars are geared to expats and tourists. There was even a restaurant claiming to serve “authentic Chinese-American cuisine.”

While teens and those in their early twenties may enjoy areas like Myeongdong or Samseong more, Itaewon seemed great for adults looking to grab a bite and a few drinks and have a good time.

We visited this area for dinner. Up until this point, most of the places we ate at were based off of Japanese information, so we decided to try The Maple House, a highly rated Korean BBQ spot that appeared in several English guides. It was alright but not great. I realized English information on Seoul may be lacking, so I wrote some food recommendations based on places I’ve eaten at.

In any case, if you’re looking for a night out with friends at an international-type of spot, this area is lively and might be decent to check out.

Starfield Library at the COEX Mall in Gangnam

Starfield Library at the COEX Mall in Gangnam

While these were some of the main spots that we visited on this trip, there were many others as well.

I wrote about some of them in my blog about my first trip to Seoul, like Myeongdong, Bukchon Hanok, Namdaemun and COEX.

Others like Samseong, a Harajuku-esque area where aspiring K-pop dancers perform on the streets, didn’t work out for us because we went to late or there was bad weather.

Namdaemun Market

Namdaemun Market

Other areas like Seongbuk and Gwangheungchan were simply stops for the food.

Let’s face it, even on my second visit to the city, a trip to Seoul is all about the food.


Cafe Onion

Possibly the hippest cafe chain in the city with locations that are converted old buildings. Their spot in Seongsu, the “Brooklyn of Seoul,” is in a gutted 1970s building that served as a former factory.

Cafe Onion Seongsu manages to balance old and new perfectly, and in doing this, makes for an extremely photogenic hang out. There are multiple seating areas, nooks and a rooftop as well. Their coffees and artisanal, homemade pastries and baked goods are tasty.

Great place to stop by when exploring the area and to take pictures.

TripAdvisor
MAP

 

dong myeonok house

Legit Korean kalbi. You know it has to be when the only other non-Koreans there were American students… with their Korean host family.

Dong Myeonok House is located up a hill in the seemingly upscale residential area of Seongbuk. There’s no major businesses or subway stations around it, so we took a taxi and went for lunch.

We ordered a small order of kalbi and 6-pieces of colorful mandu. The kalbi was melt-off-the-bone tender, tasty with a little hint of sweet, and I couldn’t get enough of the mandu. Thanks to my friend Daniel for the rec, I definitely recommend this place as well.

MAP

 

Cha Teul Teahouse

A relaxing cafe set in a traditional Korean hanok house on top a hill in the Bukchon Hanok Village area.

Cha Teul, which means “tea-drinking garden,” is an indoor tea house built around its Korean garden. You take off your shoes before you enter, sit on the floor and enjoy some tea over relaxing views. Making the experience even better, service was very friendly.

We had patibingsu (Korean shaved ice with red beans and mochi rice cakes on top), Ssangwha tea (made of Korean medical herbs brewed for 14-15 hours), and lotus tea.

Perfect place to have a sit down and relax in the afternoon.

TripAdvisor
MAP

 

Yaetmat Seoul Bulgogi

It’s hard to beat self-serve, all-you-can-eat sides and some tasty bulgolgi cooking in front of you. That’s why Yaetmat Seoul Bulgolgi was so good.

Located a couple blocks from Gwangheungchang metro station (광흥창역) on Line 6, Yaetmat Seoul Bulgolgi is a casual restaurant that only had locals - so you know it’s legit.

You sit on stools around a BBQ table and the staff comes by and makes sure everything is cooked properly. There’s a bar of assorted kim chee, greens, onions, garlic and more that’s free for the taking. A very casual, authentic experience and of course, tasty.

https://oldbulgogi.modoo.at [KR]
MAP

 

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Seoul, Korea

A first taste of Seoul’s hot spots, historical sights and delicious foods.

Seoul Tower seen from Bukchon Hanok Village

Maybe the most familiar-feeling new country I’ve ever visited.

Seoul had been near the top of my “places to go” list for nearly a decade and I finally went for the first time in October 2018.

While it made me feel like I’ve been there before, there still were a few surprises that would’ve been nice to know before.

THINGS TO KNOW

  • Google Maps isn’t as useful - locations are scarce, often don’t translate from Korean, and don’t contain detailed information

  • There’s a lot of walking - With limited escalators in train stations and trains being long themselves, there’s more walking to the exits

  • Many restaurants close early on weekends, like fully closed at 8PM on a Saturday night early

NOTE: Seoul has amazing food. If you’re looking for food recommendations, skip to the bottom or check out my list:

Seoul at sundown - [BUY PRINT]

Seoul at sundown - [BUY PRINT]

It was my first time in Korea, so I was surprised that I felt almost as if I had been there before.

Having lived in Japan and the US, being in Seoul felt somewhere in between the two. It’s very much its own country of course, but I never felt lost or like everything was so foreign to me.

Like much of America, the city has wide streets and their cars drive on the right side of the road. It has clean trains, modern lights and buildings along with really local, street-style eateries like Japan. Getting around in English is fine most of the time, and the convenience stores could rival their Japanese counterparts. Even spicy, fried chicken wings with beer is a thing. Not so different at all!

Sungnyemun Gate

Sungnyemun Gate

We had about 2.5 days and 3 nights, which gave me a nice sample taste of the city.  These are the places we visited during that time:

Day 1

MYEONGDONG

Myeongdong at night

The Myeongdong area is geared slightly towards the younger crowd and has a lot of shopping with shops for skincare, trendy fashion brands and even lookalike knockoffs. The abundance of lights and street food vendors make it a lively place until around 11PM. 

We actually went to Myeongdong three times during our stay; once for a delicious oxtail soup lunch at Sinseon Seolleongtang (information at the bottom) and the other two times at night. A lot of the street foods looked good, but being so full from all the other good food, I was only able to try a frozen s’more - a torched marshmallow with ice cream inside. Thumbs up.

MAP

From Myeongdong, we caught the light blue line and transferred to the orange line at Chungmuro station and went to Gyeongokgung station for the Gyeonggokgung Palace

GYEONGOKGUNG PALACE

Gyeongokung Palace

One of the major historical sights in Seoul is the Gyeongokgun Palace, originally built in 1395. It’s now one of the most popular tourist stops and many wear traditional (or the more glittery fake traditional) Korean dresses and walk the area.

The palace was a bit crowded when we went at around 4PM in the afternoon, despite it closing only a little while later at around 5:30PM. The grounds are big, and it would probably have taken at least a couple hours if we really wanted to see everything. We only went around the central are before moving on.

http://www.royalpalace.go.kr

From the palace, we walked over to Bukchon Hanok Village.

BUKCHON HANOK VILLAGE

Bukchon Hanok Village in the late afternoon with Seoul Tower in the background

Probably one of my favorite places in Seoul. It’s a historical neighborhood on a hillside near Gyeongokgun Palace that dates back to about 600 years ago.

You can catch a glimpse of the city’s skyline, including Seoul Tower, from some of the alleys. The walking alleys are lined with tiled walls, and the dark rooftops add contrast to the scenery. It was quite crowded when we went, and everyone had to keep quiet as people still lived there. Historical, yes, but I loved how photogenic it was.

At the bottom of the hill are a bunch of boutiques and places to eat.

http://hanok.seoul.go.kr
Map

From Anguk station, we caught the orange line and transferred to the dark blue line at Jongno 3-ga station, before getting off at Jongno 5-ga for dinner at Jinokwha Halmae Wonjo Darkhanmari (see below). It’s only one station away from the next place we went to, the DDP.

DONGDAEMUN DESIGN PLAZA (DDP)

The Dongdaemun Design Plaza or DDP

I could probably stay here all day. The Dongdaemun Design Plaza, or DDP, was designed by Zaha Hadid and it just about transports you to the future. Looking like a landed spaceship in the middle of shopping area Dongdaemun, the entire building almost has no corners and some of its surface tiles light up at night.

The DDP has shops, exhibitions and acts as a park area to hang out. It also has an illuminated LED rose garden that’s quite beautiful at night. The building area is not only gorgeous but is also useful and clearly very well thought out - one of the most impressive sights I saw on my trip. I’d likely find myself here often if I lived in Seoul.

Illuminated rose garden at Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP)

http://www.ddp.or.kr
Map

Day 2

NAMDAEMUN

A delivery moped drives through Namdaemun market

Near Seoul station and Hoehyeon station is Namdaemun market, an open street market area with Korean snacks, clothes, food stalls and more.

We grabbed a yachae hottoek - a vegetable and noodle-filled, pancake snack deep fried in soybean oil - at the famous food cart Namdaemun Yachae Hottoek [MAP] before stopping for some bibimbap in an ally full of bibimbap stalls.

http://www.namdaemunmarket.co.kr
MAP

From Hoehyeon station, we caught the light blue line to Chungmuro, then transferred there to the orange line which took us across the river to Apgujeong station.

SINSADONG / APGUJEONG / CHEONGDAM

A street in Apkujeong

A neighborhood in the wealthier Gangnam district, this area has a lot of shopping boutiques.

The vibe is a bit different from the northern side of the river as it has more mid to high end fashion shops and upscale cafes. There were apartments by Korea’s major corporations, each with parking lots mostly full of European cars. It was no surprise when we saw a Starbucks Reserve shop here in place of the more common Hollys Coffee that’s around the city.

MAP

From this area, we decided to take a taxi to the COEX mall. Taxis are pretty frequent - the orange ones are said to be the most reliable.

COEX

Starfield Library book towers at COEX shopping mall in Seoul

COEX is a combined convention center / exhibition hall / shopping mall. It’s huge, and its underground shopping mall is apparently the world’s largest.

One of the things it’s most known for is its Starfield Library (pictured above), a picturesque atrium area with bookshelves reaching a couple stories high. There’s also a large art installation of PSY’s “Gangnam Style hands” on the street level on its eastern side, right around here [MAP].

https://www.starfield.co.kr [KR]

Catching a taxi again, we flagged one down on the street and caught it to the Lotte World Tower. 

LOTTE WORLD TOWER

The view of Seoul at sundown from the Lotte World Tower

I’m always looking for a nice view of whatever city I’m in, and Lotte World Tower has one of the best in Seoul.

Lotte is one of the most well known Korean companies as they make everything from chewing gum to burgers. Lotte World is a huge entertainment complex with a theme park and shopping mall, and the Lotte World Tower, the tallest building in Seoul, is right there as well.

The view from the tower is amazing - you can see Seoul in any direction from about 120 floors up until about 10PM. They also have a sky deck, and their elevator is a smooth, one-minute ride that features a 360-degree virtual experience while in it. Impressive.

http://www.lwt.co.kr
MAP

From Jamsil station next to the Lotte World Tower, we caught the green line back to the hotel before heading out to dinner at Gwangjang Market. 

GWANGJANG MARKET

A food stall at Gwangjang market in Seoul that serves san-nakji or “live” octopus.

A food stall at Gwangjang market in Seoul that serves san-nakji or “live” octopus.

Another one of the major street food markets in Seoul, Gwangjang Market is known for foods such as yukke (raw beef with raw egg) and san-nakji (“live” octopus). They’re both really good. A lot of people, locals and tourists alike, come here for some street food and soju.

The stall we sat at was run by one of the veterans, a lady operating in a tiny space 3ft by 3ft at best that fit the sink, refrigerator, cutting area, trash - everything. She didn’t speak any English, but her stall was very popular and she was attentive to everyone while being really hospitable. She even decided to feed me my first bites of everything, leaving me no time to question my decision to order what I did. 

MAP

Sunset near the Gyeongokgun Palace

Seoul was a great trip. There’s so much to see and service was generally pretty good. Growing up in the US, Korean restaurants aren’t known to have the friendliest service, so I was pleasantly surprised at how warm and friendly it was in Seoul.

With English being often understood, a decent amount of western products being sold in stores, and Seoul being a big city but not overcrowded like Tokyo or Hong Kong, I think Seoul makes for a great trip, especially for western tourists who haven’t been to Asia before. And the food… the food is amazing.

I’ll be back!


SINSEON SEOLLEONGTANG

Oxtail soup at Sinseon Seolleongtang Myeongdong

Really good oxtail soup still boiling in the pot. The seolleongtang oxtail soup st this chain was really good, and there’s unlimited kimchee at the table for your taking. Service is quick and efficient. We went around noon for lunch and there was a line - it’s quite popular and has been featured in a Korean drama - but the line moved really quickly and was totally worth it.

http://www.kood.co.kr
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JAMAEJIP

Raw beef sashimi yukke at Jamaejip in Gwangjang Market in SeoulAnyone who hasn’t had raw beef and raw egg yukke is missing out. I really believe that. It’s a double no-no for us Americans, I get it, but after living in Japan, I realized just how goo…

Near the Gwangjang Market area is an ally with restaurants featuring yukke - raw beef with raw egg. You mix it together and dip it in a sesame oil sauce. It might take some time to get used to for people who’ve never had it, but it’s definitely worth it. Jamaejip had two locations next to each other and both were full when we went on a weeknight. The wait wasn’t too bad and it was a good time joining the locals for some yukke and soju.

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JINOKWHA HALMAE WONJO DARKHANMARI

This restaurant only serves one dish: Chicken hot pot. They put a pot on your table’s burner and your chicken and vegetable Star to cook. It’s your job to mix your dipping sauce and order extras like tteokbokki if you want. While it’s so simple, it’s so good. There was a large crowd waiting to be seated outside, but with 3 floors of tables, the wait wasn’t that long at all. You could go to the neighboring restaurants serving the same thing, but you can’t lose with this place.

http://www.darkhanmari.co.kr
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BHC

Fried chicken and beer is a thing in Korea. I didn’t expect I’d be having something like this as a part of my Korean food experience, but I did, and wow, it was really good. There’s so much flavor in each bite, especially their spicy ones. People eat on the outside tables and drink, but we took out. Either way, delicious and recommended.

http://www.bhc.co.kr/ [KR]
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GALLERY SAI - BY CREATIVE ART GROUP SAI

A coffee shop in a traditional Korean house. We randomly stumbled upon Gallery SAI coming down from the Bukchon Hanok village and were pleasantly surprised. It’s in a converted old house that blends in with much of the area. You take your shoes off and find a table, some of which are on the floor or in a room, and have tea or coffee. A little more costly than a typical coffee shop, but well worth it for the experience.

https://blog.naver.com/gallerysai [KR]
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