Travel Log Barrett Ishida Travel Log Barrett Ishida

Kamakura: A Day Trip from Tokyo

A day trip to a big Buddha statue and some historical sights in the seaside neighborhood.

Daibutsu Buddha statue in Kamakura

Kamakura is one of the more popular day trips to take when in Tokyo. It’s a seaside area full of historical sights and is pretty easily accessible from the city by train.

HOW TO GET THERE

The way that I’ve gone is by taking the Shonan-Shinjuku line from Shinjuku station to Fujisawa station, then transferring to the local, 2-car Enoden train that stops at all the local sights in town.

The Enoden train in Kamakura - [BUY PRINT]

The Enoden train in Kamakura - [BUY PRINT]

Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu

One of Kamakura’s main attractions is Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū, a Shinto shrine that sits atop a hillside on some fairly large grounds.

It’s centrally located near Kamakura station and is the area’s main attraction, in fact the area’s main boulevard leads right up to the entrance.

From there, a long pathway that sometimes is lined with food and game stands - the type that you’d find at Japanese summer festivals - leads up to a courtyard area before a long stairway up to the shrine itself.

Roofline of Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu shrine in Kamakura

I first visited the shrine for hatsumode, or the first shrine trip of the year, which is a ritual for Japanese people. It was just after New Year’s Day and I ended up joining hundreds of others who had the same idea. While the wait wasn’t as bad as I thought it’d be, the crowd was pretty sizable like it is at most major shrines during this time of year. We lined up with everyone else in the courtyard area at the bottom of the stairway, and waited for about half an hour before ushers guided us up.

http://www.tsurugaoka-hachimangu.jp/

Just outside the shrine grounds is Komachi Street, a small side street that runs parallel on the west side of the main road leading up to the shrine. It’s a local, walking street full of small shops selling Japanese food and treats, including some amazing matcha ice cream (see below). 

Walking up to the shrine on the main road, then coming back down on Komachi Street is a good idea.

Kamakura Daibutsu (The Great Buddha)

Kamakura’s other main attraction is the Kamakura Daibutsu, or the Great Buddha of Kamakura statue. It’s actually a part of the Buddhist Kotoku-in Temple.

Kamakura Daibutsu at the Kotoku-in temple in Kamakura

The statue is a short walk from Hase station which is on the Enoden line. Shops for tourists seem to slowly be popping up along the route to the temple, but its still quite a residential area.

The statue itself is hard to miss and sits in the center of a courtyard next to the actual temple. The temple doesn’t stand out, so my guess is that most people are like me and only visit the statue without ever actually going into the temple itself.

http://www.kotoku-in.jp/en/

Hase-dera Temple

Also near Hase station is Hase-dera, another Buddhist temple that dates back to the 8th century.

It’s pretty convenient since it’s just a few blocks in from the main road that connects Hase Station and the Great Buddha. There’s quite a bit to explore too. Its located on a hillside on quite a big area with several buildings, gardens and a museum. There’s also places to shop and eat that have ocean views.

Mini statues beside a walkway at Hase-dera Temple

Mini statues beside a walkway at Hase-dera Temple

Ajisai flowers (Hydrangea), popular in late spring/early summer, on the Hase-dera temple grounds

Ajisai flowers (Hydrangea), popular in late spring/early summer, on the Hase-dera temple grounds

Mini statues lined on a wall at Hase-dera temple

Mini statues lined on a wall at Hase-dera temple

Ocean view from the Hase-dera Temple hillside

Ocean view from the Hase-dera Temple hillside

Little figures in a cave at Hase-dera

Little figures in a cave at Hase-dera

http://www.hasedera.jp/en/

While the Enoden train goes to the main places in Kamakura, it can get really crowded. It’s a local neighborhood at its core and I don’t think they imagined that thousands of tourists would flood their local streets every day. Walking the local area instead of heading back on the train each time is a good idea. There are a lot of small cafes and boutiques popping up here and there to stumble on.

I’ve also been lucky to find some good places to eat.

Kamakura Matsubara-an

Matsubara-an popped up as a good lunch option as it was highly rated and within walking distance from Hase station (it’s closest to Yuigahama station). It’s a soba noodle shop that looks like a converted old Japanese house, making for a great atmosphere. It can get pretty crowded though - we waited between 30-60 minutes for a late lunch. The food is really good - I recommend their sudachi soba, a Japanese citrus soba. Their tempura is also really light and tasty.

http://matsubara-an.com/ [J]
Map

Kamakura Cha Cha

Matcha ice cream at Cha Cha in Kamakura

Best matcha ice cream? It’s definitely up there. I walked in Kamakura Cha Cha while walking down Komachi street after visiting Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū shrine, and I’m glad I did. It’s a small shop with several types of creamy, rich, matcha ice cream, each with a different level of matcha intensity. It starts at level 1 (light) and goes up to Level 4 and tops out at Level MAX. There’s also hōjicha, a roasted green tea flavor as well. If you’re like me and like dense matcha flavor, go for the level 4 or MAX.

http://kamakura-chacha.com/ [J]
Map

Kohana Sushi

Good quality chirashi sushi. Kohana Sushi is a small, hole-in-the-wall along a road that connects the Hase station area with the Kamakura station area. This is a good road to walk. It’s an older shop with an exterior that blends in with the vintage look of the original neighborhood, the type where most people walking by would probably pay no mind. Inside is a traditional eatery with a bar counter and tables on a tatami mat where you sit on the floor to eat. They’re known for their chirashi sushi which comes in a pair of stacked bowls with the rice on the bottom and an assortment of different kinds of sashimi on the top.

Map


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Koshu, Yamanashi: Grapes and Wine Town

A day trip to Koshu, Yamanashi, known for some of the best grapes in Japan.

A dog, “Dash,”, watching over the vineyard for wild boars

A dog, “Dash,”, watching over the vineyard for wild boars

  • Yamanashi prefecture is located just west of Tokyo and is known for its fruits

  • Koshu is a small city of about 32,000 and is like the Napa Valley of Japan


Living in Japan, I’ve realized that the country has some of the most delicious fruits. The flavor gap between the average supermarket fruit in the US versus one in Japan can be considerable at times, almost to the point that I feel I was deprived.

One of the juiciest fruits that I’ve had in Japan is grapes, and perhaps the most well known area for grapes is Koshu in Yamanashi prefecture.

Koshu city in Yamanashi, Japan

Koshu is to the west of Tokyo in Yamanashi prefecture, and is almost fully blanketed with vineyards from mountain to mountain. Unlike other grape and wine areas like Napa, Koshu is quite hilly and full of smaller-sized vineyards. Many of them open roadside stands selling their homegrown grapes while a few others make wine.

How to get there

The best way to get there is by car.

If you go by train, from Shinjuku station in Tokyo, it’s about a 1.5 hour ride on the JR Chuo limited express, Azusa and Kaiji trains. The main stop in the area is Enzan station [MAP], but the closest station to where I’ve gone here is Katsunumabudokyo Station [MAP], along just before it.

You can get more information and make reservations here on the JR East website. It’s also eligible for JR Rail Pass holders.

August-September is the best time to visit as it’s peak grape season.

Grapes on the vine - each bunch gets a cover to protect it from the rain

Grapes on the vine - each bunch gets a cover to protect it from the rain

Japanese fruits on average can be slightly expensive, and in mid to high-end department stores, grapes from this area can sell for $60-100 USD per bunch.

Part of the reason why costs are higher is because they produce smaller quantities due to intensive pruning, smaller areas of land and because a lot of care goes into growing, shipping and packaging in general. If you notice in the photos above, each bunch of grapes is even semi-wrapped in protective covering.

During grape season in early September, I was able to visit a family-run vineyard and get some of the juiciest grapes at the source.

Farm Kunugi

A little more than a roadside stand, Farm Kunugi [J] had its own parking lot and a small area of tables and chairs under their vines for people to sit and eat what they just bought.

The vineyard began in 1957 and started with 4 types of grapes - Delaware, Kyoho, Fujibutsu and Pione. They’ve since expanded their selection and were selling several of them when I visited.

All of the grapes here are delicious, but I tend to favor the darker purple ones like the Fujiminori and Kyoho. Each grape is huge and packed with intense flavor.

The family was very friendly and they also ship their grapes around the country. Their harvest period is between June and September - going here for fresh grapes definitely beat dealing with Tokyo’s heat and humidity. And they have cute dogs guarding their grapes.

One of the dogs at Farm Kunugi vineyard in Koshu, Yamanashi.

http://farm-kunugi.com/ [J]
Map

Ikeda Winery

After getting full of grapes, I visited the nearby Ikeda Winery [J], a family-owned winery that’s been in operation since 1995, and only a short drive away from Farm Kunugi.

Ikeda Winery in Katsunuma, Koshu, Yamanashi

They don’t have a winery or vineyard tour as it’s more of a small shop. The great thing about them though is that they offer an extensive wine tasting of about 13 different wines for 500 yen (about $5 USD). Here, you can taste a range of whites, rosé and a couple of reds.

If you buy a bottle, many of which are reasonably priced between $15-40 USD, your money is refunded. It’s a good deal, especially if you like white wine. I’m more of a red guy, but their white wines were quite good - clean, light and crisp.

Wine tasting at Ikeda Winery in Katsunuma, Yamanashi

Wine tasting at Ikeda Winery in Katsunuma, Yamanashi

And they have a cute dog as well. Update: She has since passed on as of August 2019.

The late Ikeda Winery family dog, Emma, an older former breeder.

The late Ikeda Winery family dog, Emma, an older former breeder.

http://www.katsunuma.ne.jp/~ikedawinery/ [J]
Map

After a good day of grapes and wine, we made one last food stop before heading back to Tokyo.

 

Delhi Bay

Curry at Delhi Bay was recommended to us, so we decided to try it out. It’s a really local, hole-in-the-wall type of spot. They’re spicier level curries are quite good, and have a few types to choose from that are either Indian or European inspired. Each is served with white rice and pickles.

Map


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Fukuoka: Hakata Ramen Favorites

Here are my favorite authentic Hakata ramen spots after living in the area for five years.

When I moved to Fukuoka, I had no idea at the time that it was the prefecture arguably known to have the best ramen in Japan. Much of the ramen that has dominated the global boom is Hakata’s ramen, named after the main area of Fukuoka, and known for its tonkotsu (pork) broth and thin, firm noodles.

Having lived in Yukuhashi, a small city in the prefecture, I’ve eaten at a lot of different tonkotsu ramen shops. When I go back to visit, I make sure to stop at as many of my favorite spots as I can: 

ICHIRAN

Ichiran ramen at the Tenjin Nishidori location in Fukuoka.

Ichiran is the king of Hakata ramen, and its fame is well deserved. Each bowl of ramen is custom made to your taste, and you can enjoy it in your semi-private counter cubby. In my opinion, they have the best noodles (get it Fukuoka style: “Barikata” or very firm), and their broth is always rich in flavor. One difference in some of Fukuoka's locations is the signature rectangle box bowl. This is how it's served in locations like Tenjin's Nishidori.

https://ichiran.com

MARUSHIN

My personal favorite ramen shop in Yukuhashi and one of my favorites in all of Fukuoka. It may not be the most famous in town, that award goes to the now international Kanada-ya, but Marushin’s ramen has a perfectly balanced and tasty tonkotsu pork broth that's just the right amount of rich. Their "Akamaru" is fantastic and has a little bit of Korean gojchujan spiciness to it. Each bowl is full of toppings and all in all amazing, and they're open until 2AM for those late nights.

My Yelp Review
Map

IPPUDO

Ippudo ramen

Ippudo is one of the most globally known Hakata ramen chains with locations in 13+ countries outside of Japan. Each bowl is hearty, with a rich, smooth broth, nice pork slices and perhaps the thinnest noodles I’ve had in Hakata ramen. Their “Akamaru” is my favorite due to its added spiciness, but two of the best things about Ippudo are their Hakata-style, bite-sized gyoza and all-you-can-eat flavored bean sprout sides free for the taking on the table.

http://www.ippudo.com [J]
http://www.multilingual.ippudo.com

SHIN SHIN

Shin Shin tonkotsu ramen in Fukuoka.

The most famous “local” ramen spot in Fukuoka city. The original location, a hole-in-the wall in the Tenjin area’s backstreets, has walls covered in signed cards and posters from Japanese celebrities. Shin Shin’s broth is just slightly lighter than some of my other favorite ramen spots but with no sacrifice in taste, and their noodles are pretty similar to Ichiran’s. They have a few more locations beside Tenjin’s with two conveniently located in Hakata station.

http://www.hakata-shinshin.com [J]

DANBO

Danbo tonkotsu ramen at the Nakasu location in Fukuoka.

A simple yet tasty bowl, Danbo was the first ramen to really make me think about whether or not to go to Ichiran. Originally from the Chikushino area of Fukuoka, they now have locations around Japan and abroad as well in places like Vancouver, Seattle, NYC, Australia and Vietnam. Their broth’s flavor is a tiny bit thinner than Ichiran’s but their noodles are quite similar. Each bowl has some great melt-in-your-mouth slices in it.

http://danbo.jp [J]

A couple other ramen shops that I recommend in Fukuoka are Taiho [J] and Ramen Kurume Honda [J]. Both are from the Kurume area of Fukuoka and serve some hearty bowls of ramen with fantastic slices of pork. Next time.

By no means is this a comprehensive list, there are endless good bowls of ramen in Fukuoka and everyone knows you can’t get enough. So if you have a Hakata ramen recommendation, please write it below!


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Vintage Cave Club: An Outstanding Dining Experience

A French-Japonais dining experience at one of Hawaii’s most exclusive restaurants.

Vintage Cave Club entrance

A culinary experience that was unlike any other I’ve had.  

I was fortunate enough to eat at Vintage Cave Club with my family, an exclusive, high-end restaurant featuring cuisine prepared by elite chefs that is regarded as one of the best in Hawaii. Their slogan says it all: Hideaway Guest House For Oenophiles & Connoisseurs.

Opened in 2012 by Japanese real estate billionaire Takeshi Sekiguchi, club members who would pay an annual fee in the thousands would go there to dine. It’s since been opened to the public (there are still club members), and has been dined at by President Barack Obama and Michelle Obama, amongst other notable figures and celebrities. 

The first points worth noting are its location and exterior, as pictured up top. It’s located in the darkest, least visited parking lot area of Ala Moana Shopping Center. Inconspicuously tucked between the pillars and parking stalls is its dimly lit red brick facade with a single black, metal door.

This is where the experience begins. 

The Vintage Cave Club experience

Ringing the buzzer, the host answers on the intercom before opening the door to greet you. Walking through the cellar-like foyer, a vibe that is consistent throughout, you get on an elevator that leads to the restaurant.

Main dining area of Vintage Cave Club, with art by Ardon Mordecai and Pablo Picasso decorating the walls

Main dining area of Vintage Cave Club, with art by Ardon Mordecai and Pablo Picasso decorating the walls

The restaurant space is dimly lit and spacious, decorated with art like "Les Deux Femmes Nues" by Pablo Picasso, a Baccarat crystalware collection and a lot more.

Besides the central dining space, there are a couple of small, semi-private nooks - one of which where we ate in, private dining rooms and a sushi counter. There's also a wine cellar stocked with the most exclusive wines, a locker room for club members to store their expensive bottles, and a bar with a selection that includes a 50 year old Macallan - $6,000 for a small pour.

Dining nook where the Obamas dined

Dining nook where the Obamas dined

Bar room

Bar room

Private lockers for club members

Private lockers for club members

Our menu was the French Japonais Prix Fixe, a 10-12 course menu featuring Takanokuni Wagyu. While we got a deal, the course is priced at $300 per person, with tax, service charge and tip separate.

Each dish was brought to us one by one, and the service was impressive throughout the evening. A few servers would come out together and in synchronized fashion, place the dish in front of each of us at the same time. Our lead server was very professional, not at all stiff, and personable in the perfect amount.

French Japonais Prix Fixe

Here's everything that was served. One thing worthy of noting is that while the food itself was nicely arranged, the dishes they each were served on were art pieces in their own right, making the presentation that much more amazing.

Abalone with abalone liver and yuzu ponzu jelly

Abalone with abalone liver and yuzu ponzu jelly

A5 Takanokuni Wagyu with miso pickled cream cheese and wasabi

A5 Takanokuni Wagyu with miso pickled cream cheese and wasabi

Siberian caviar on ahi (tuna) tartare, basil powder and toast w/ 24k gold leaf

Siberian caviar on ahi (tuna) tartare, basil powder and toast w/ 24k gold leaf

Uni chawanmushi (Japanese steamed custard-like flan)

Uni chawanmushi (Japanese steamed custard-like flan)

Sashimi (3 types) over seaweed salad, amaebi (sweet shrimp) jelly and wasabi foam with a mini garden salad and miso sesame paste

Sashimi (3 types) over seaweed salad, amaebi (sweet shrimp) jelly and wasabi foam with a mini garden salad and miso sesame paste

Consommé soup with A5 Takanokuni Wagyu and prosciutto, shiitake mushroom, daikon (Japanese radish) and Tokyo negi (green onion) foam

Consommé soup with A5 Takanokuni Wagyu and prosciutto, shiitake mushroom, daikon (Japanese radish) and Tokyo negi (green onion) foam

Served with the soup: Miso bread, sesame charcoal bread, ricotta cheese in olive oil, red wine salt

Served with the soup: Miso bread, sesame charcoal bread, ricotta cheese in olive oil, red wine salt

Onaga (long-tail red snapper) in white wine sauce, tomato (?), ikura, saffron tuile

Onaga (long-tail red snapper) in white wine sauce, tomato (?), ikura, saffron tuile

Yuzu sorbet

Yuzu sorbet

Hitsumabushi unagi and A5 Takanokuni Wagyu on crispy risotto in red wine sauce

Hitsumabushi unagi and A5 Takanokuni Wagyu on crispy risotto in red wine sauce

Ribeye and Filet A5 Takanokuni Wagyu in miso vinegar sauce, with black truffle in sherry sauce

Ribeye and Filet A5 Takanokuni Wagyu in miso vinegar sauce, with black truffle in sherry sauce

(Not included in the Prix Fixe) 29 year old aged peaberry Kona coffee - Smooth tasting, reminiscent of Kopi Luwak

(Not included in the Prix Fixe) 29 year old aged peaberry Kona coffee - Smooth tasting, reminiscent of Kopi Luwak

Served with the coffee: Sugar jelly

Served with the coffee: Sugar jelly

Corn chowder and corn gelato with crystallized soy powder

Corn chowder and corn gelato with crystallized soy powder

The meal was just about perfect in every way, and everyone finished just the right amount of full. Would I have taken more if it were an all-you-can-eat buffet? Sure. But it wasn't that kind of dinner. Everyone finished satisfied. 

After the meal, our server offered to take us around on a tour of the restaurant, explaining its history, approach, wine and art collection. She guided us back in the elevator and walked us out, concluding our experience at the Vintage Cave Club.

A dinner with my family that I won't forget.

 

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Banff, Canada - In the Snow

Touring a beautiful, snowy Banff National Park.

A snowy Lake Louise

A snowy Lake Louise

Banff is one of those places where describing it in words is probably doing it a disservice. It’s a place that you just have to see for yourself.

Visiting in May 2017, the weather in Banff National Park was still quite cool - mountains were covered in snow and the lakes were at the beginning stages of melting. I would love to see those lakes painted in crystal blue during the summertime, but seeing it coated in fluffy white probably made for a completely different experience.

Entering Banff with the morning sunlight shining through

Entering Banff with the morning sunlight shining through

Right away, even before seeing much of anything, I knew it was someplace that I wanted to come back to someday.

Lake Louise covered in white snow

Lake Louise covered in white snow

Staying in Calgary, we took a day trip with a tour we booked from Viator who picked us up from the city and took us on a tour with main stops at Lake Louise, Johnston Canyon's lower waterfall and the Kicking Horse Pass. Lake Moraine was on the list as well but we unfortunately had to skip it due to unsafe conditions. 

Johnston Canyon's lower waterfall

Johnston Canyon's lower waterfall

Our tour guide was one of those people who do their job because they love it. What had started out as just a short term gig, he apparently grew a passion for it and decided to stay, which ended up in him giving us not only a knowledgeable tour, but one where you could tell he wanted to give us the best experience possible.

Kicking Horse Pass

Kicking Horse Pass

Blue waters at Kicking Horse Pass

Blue waters at Kicking Horse Pass

Besides the incredible sights on our tour list, some of the highlights included random, wild animal sightings.

We saw a couple of black bears recently out of hibernation, one roaming and another digging through a log for food, as well as a moose. Our guide seemed genuinely surprised to see them at this time of year and he was just as into watching them as we were, pulling the bus to a halt on the road so we could observe and be in awe.

A wild moose hanging out in Banff

A wild moose hanging out in Banff

Banff Town was our final stop before heading back to Calgary. A lot of people stay at lodges here being that it’s more convenient, something I’d probably consider doing next time. It’s a small town that somewhat resembles ski villages like Whistler, and there’s quite a bit of shopping there as it’s geared to tourists.

Mountains near Banff Town

Mountains near Banff Town

In Banff, it's all about the nature. Even the town is surrounded by tall mountain tops, humbling us and reminding us how small we really are. There are incredible natural landscapes to see in the world, and North America definitely has an abundance. Banff has to be one of the ones at the top.

I'm looking forward to being back.

Flying over the Canadian Rockies on Air Canada

Flying over the Canadian Rockies on Air Canada


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Calgary, Canada

The “Midwest” of Canada, Calgary was a nice short stay while heading to Banff.

Calgary Tower

Calgary Tower

Calgary was our hub for a day trip to Banff National Park.

Before arriving, I had only known the city for two things: The hometown of the twin music duo Tegan and Sara, and the Winter Olympic spot that Cool Runnings happened.

Downtown Calgary

Downtown Calgary

We caught a cab from the airport to our Airbnb with a driver who was full of stories. He told us about how he immigrated in the footsteps of his dad from Bangladesh (I believe), started a business and ended up calling Calgary his home despite its conservative background that he didn’t really agree with. The low key feel and the opportunities that Calgary could offer him were reasons enough for him to call it home.

Our Airbnb was in The Guardian Towers, a tall pair of residential towers near the Calgary Stampede, an area that seemed to be on its way to being developed. 

The Guardian Towers, Airbnb location

The Guardian Towers, Airbnb location

Calgary is a small city of about 1.3 million with a very different feel from Vancouver or Montreal. You immediately sense it. It makes Vancouver look extremely hippie and Montreal seem like some city on the other side of the Atlantic altogether. It’s probably akin to a typical American Midwest city, and although I’ve only been to Omaha and Chicago, I’d imagine this comparison to be pretty accurate.

Afternoon in downtown Calgary

Afternoon in downtown Calgary

The city blocks are big and destinations are further away than you’d think. There’s a streetcar, the CTrain, that runs through the central downtown area, but outside it things are pretty spread apart with not a whole lot in between. It’s definitely more of a driving city. Despite this, we spent our time exploring on foot, mostly south of Downtown on 17th Ave SW and then Downtown itself.

The CTrain going through downtown Calgary

The CTrain going through downtown Calgary

During the rodeo season, the city apparently gets lively as it’s the main event of the year. Otherwise, it seems to be pretty quiet with stores closing early around 6PM. We were there in May and it’s still very lit at that hour, so it was a strange sight to see the city basically shut down in the daylight. Calgary happens to be the sunniest part of Canada actually, and days during that time went until around 8PM. 

The Calgary sunrise was incredible.

The Calgary sunrise was incredible.

People in Calgary seemed pretty nice, which fits the stereotypical mold for Canadians in general. The vibe was very laid back - no rushing around, no nonsense - it was a conversations with shop staff type of place.

While I wouldn’t necessarily put it as the main destination of an international trip, it’d be interesting to see it really come to life during the rodeo season.

Calgary, south of downtown, with the Canadian Rockies in the distance

Calgary, south of downtown, with the Canadian Rockies in the distance

One thing that took me by surprise was that there were some delicious places to eat, including seafood in this city despite it being far from the ocean. Here’s some great places that we ate at: 

Village Ice Cream

First stop of Calgary after checking in was Village Ice Cream, a dessert shop that we found nearby that had good reviews. while I forgot to take a pic of the ice cream iteself (I know...), those reviews were right. Village Ice Cream has 3 locations, the one that we went to was somewhat like a popup in an empty garage. The ice cream was amazing, creamy and with an assortment of flavors. Maple Pean, Salted Caramel, Cardamom... and seasonal flavors like Guava Coconut Milk. Simply amazing.

https://villageicecream.com

 

Ten Foot Henry

Searching for places to eat in town, we came across Ten Foot Henry, drawn in by its name. It became apparent that having a reservation would be the best as it's popular, but we got in after an hour or so. The location is hip, probably an old building gutted and renovated. The dishes always seemed to have a mix of flavors from around the world, like the hanger steak with truffle mustard and gai choy. Their white win sangria is also pretty delicious. 

http://www.tenfoothenry.com

 

Rodney’s Oyster House

We randomly walked into Rodney's after discovering that it was a well-reviewed restaurant only a couple blocks away. Calgary is in the middle of Canada but their seafood was quite good, both the oysters as well as the shrimp cocktail. Their Alberta beef tartare came recommended by the staff, who I'll add was friendly and helpful at giving us recommendations, and that was delicious as well. Worth a stop.

https://rodneysoysterhouse.com


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Victoria B.C., Canada

A day trip from Vancouver to gorgeous Victoria.

Legislative Assembly of British Columbia

Legislative Assembly of British Columbia

Victoria was a lot more enjoyable on my second trip there as an adult. While vacationing in Vancouver in late April / early May in 2017, we decided to take a day trip to the BC capital.

The main attraction for most visiting Victoria is probably Buchart Gardens. A vast and beautiful landscape of various flowers, trees and lakes, it has several gardens to stroll through such as The Sunken Garden, Rose Garden and Japanese Garden amongst others.

I definitely appreciated it a lot more on my "adult trip" than when I had visited as a high school student. 

The Sunken Garden at Buchart Gardens

The Sunken Garden at Buchart Gardens

Without a car, we caught the SkyTrain from our Yaletown-Roundhouse station to Bridgeport station where we transferred to a bus (route 620) that took us to the Tsawwassen terminal. From there, we took one of the hourly ferries [schedule] to the island. It's about a 1 hour and 35 minute scenic ride through the beautiful San Juan islands between the mainland and Vancouver Island.

Ferry from Vancouver to Victoria

Ferry from Vancouver to Victoria

Once arriving at Buchart Gardens, we had our scheduled afternoon tea at The Dining Room (make reservations). How adult, right?

The food was ok, perhaps a little sweet overall for my taste, but the tea was good and the room itself provided a nice ambiance. Being that it's in the middle of a flower garden, it probably would’ve been a better experience if they had more open-air space. We may have been a bit too early in the year for that, though.

Afternoon tea at The Dining Room, Buchart Gardens

Afternoon tea at The Dining Room, Buchart Gardens

We weren't able to see all of the gardens as the last bus to downtown Victoria leaves in the afternoon and The Sunken Garden alone is 151 flower beds spread over 5 acres. 

Buchart Gardens

The bus from Buchart Gardens took us straight into the downtown area.

Downtown Victoria is easy to walk, and a gorgeous one at that. Its British colonial history is seen in the Victorian buildings that line the wharf, and had we not been full from afternoon tea, we probably would've grabbed some food and sat out somewhere along the waterfront.

While my memory from my first trip to Victoria in high school is hazy, I remember walking the area with my family and grandparents, admiring the surrounding architecture and outdoor performances that were happening around the wharf that time. It's one of the more memorable sights in Vancouver and Victoria.

The Fairmont Empress next to the wharf in downtown Victoria

The Fairmont Empress next to the wharf in downtown Victoria

Downtown Victoria does close early, real early. 6PM seemed to be the closing time for most shops in the area.

We caught a bus back to the Swartz Bay terminal and boarded the ferry back to Tsawwassen Bay on the mainland as the sun set.

Victoria is a nice day trip, but it will take a full day. We spent around 15 hours total including transportation, leaving early in the morning and returning at night, but it was well worth it.

From a visual standpoint, Victoria contrasts Vancouver quite a bit. While Vancouver is nice in its own right, Victoria is one of the most beautiful sights to see while visiting the area. 

Sunset from the ferry between Victoria and Vancouver

Sunset from the ferry between Victoria and Vancouver


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Vancouver, Canada

My first trip to Vancouver as an adult, and while a good place to visit, it seemed like a pretty nice place to actually live.

The Vancouver skyline - [BUY PRINT]

The Vancouver skyline - [BUY PRINT]

I have always liked Canada. 2017 was my first time back to Vancouver since I was in high school, and after settling in, I thought to myself, "I could see myself living here someday."

Perhaps it’s because I flew in from Tokyo, but Vancouver seemed smaller and more quaint than I had remembered. Even catching the SkyTrain into the city from the airport was easy and chaos-free.

We stayed at a couple of Airbnb’s - one just outside of Yaletown on Smithe St, the other in the central area on Hornby St. Both were in nice residential towers just a few blocks from main areas.

The view from our Airbnb on Smithe St., just outside of Yaletown

The view from our Airbnb on Smithe St., just outside of Yaletown

We chose to walk around most of the city and only caught taxis when we had to. Vancouver has the car2go service which I wanted to use - it lets you get in and drive the nearest available car and just leave it when you're done - but I hadn't received my renewed license yet. Bummer.

We walked around Robson Street and the Gaslight District, two of the main areas in town. There weren’t any must see's or do's there in particular, but they were nice areas to walk while shopping at Canadian brands like lululemon and Kit and Ace while stopping to grab a bite or drink. 

The Gaslight District

The Gaslight District

One of the highlights of our time in Vancouver was Granville Island.

We caught a small ferry boat from the Aquatic Centre Ferry Dock [map] to the island, where the main attraction is its public market.

A warehouse full of shops and food stands, Granville Market had everything from sausages and deli cuts to fresh fish, cheeses, pastries, soups and more to pick and choose from. We decided to load up on a variety of meats from Oyama Sausage Company, candied salmon from Seafood City, cheese from Benton Brothers and some fresh soup from The Stock Market, grabbed a table and filled our stomachs and brought some back to the apartment for later.

I had wanted to re-visit Grouse Mountain and Capilano Bridge since I had seen it on my earlier visit to Vancouver, but we didn't make it due to it being rainy, down jacket weather every other day. We went in late April / early May, and being in the Pacific Northwest, the weather was still going back and forth between cloudy, rainy and cold, to clear, sunny and warm.

Instead, we used a sunny day for a day trip to Victoria on Vancouver Island - I wrote about it here.

While it's easier to drive and take the ferry from Tsawwassen terminal, the main port for people going to and from Victoria, we took a bus there before departing to the island. Our two main stops there were Buchart Gardens and downtown Victoria.

Buchart Gardens was the main destination in Victoria

Buchart Gardens was the main destination in Victoria

For a park stroll that's closer to central Vancouver, there's Stanley Park which is likely on most people’s lists when visiting.

Before walking through the park, we stopped on the northern side of Robson Street, near the Denman Street intersection, which was somewhat of an Asian Town. Japanese, Chinese and Korean food galore. Being that Vancouver is quite a diverse city with a lot of people of Asian backgrounds, it makes sense that there's an area with a lot of authentic Asian foods. 

Vancouver skyline seen from Stanley Park

Vancouver skyline seen from Stanley Park

After lunch, we walked around the park, snapping some skyline shots of the city (like this one and the photo up top). 

The view from our second Airbnb near Downtown on Hornby Street

The view from our second Airbnb near Downtown on Hornby Street

Our final day was spent in Vancouver with a walk through Davie Village, Sunset Beach and English Bay Beach. These areas are probably the main reasons BC is considered the more liberal, "hippie" part of Canada.

A car2go drives through Davie Village

A car2go drives through Davie Village

Davie Village is considered the "gay village," and it's not hard to tell with the rainbow flags and rainbow crosswalks painted on the streets.

Nearby down the street is Sunset Beach and English Bay Beach. There, people are out relaxing, playing sports and having fun soaking in some fresh air with a slight smell of ocean and weed. Having lived in San Francisco, I found the environment to be familiar and almost comforting after living in Japan for so long.

People hanging out at English Bay Beach

People hanging out at English Bay Beach

My return to Vancouver reminded me about why I liked it, and Canada as a whole. The city is very international and diverse, people are polite, and you get a sense of freedom that you can be who you are and that it's ok. I'm sure that it's not perfect - a taxi driver mentioned the rising cost of living due to foreigners buying up condos that they never use - but everywhere has its troubles.

Robson Street in the late afternoon

Robson Street in the late afternoon

In the US, it's common for Americans to make fun of Canada in a big brother sort of way. I've smirked at it, I guess, but I never understood why that became a thing. I still don't. Canada is a great place, and I look forward to the next time I'm there.

 

The Keg Steakhouse + Bar

It's hard to beat The Keg because it's delicious steak and seafood along with a good drink selection in an upscale yet casual environment. My steak was cooked to perfection and the shrimp cocktail was great. Service was laid back and friendly yet assertive. Our time at The Keg was a perfect afternoon with some beers from the area, and I'd definitely go back for another round next time

https://www.kegsteakhouse.com

Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House

Joe's seafood tower on ice at Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House in Vancouver, Canada

A gigantic platter of mixed shellfish on ice right on your table. Being in Vancouver, we made it a point to eat a bunch of seafood and because there were too many delicious-looking choices to choose from here, we got Joe's Seafood Tower on Ice. Good decision. Joe Fortes has a classical, high quality, American-esque type of ambiance and the service was really good. It is a popular restaurant right off the main area of Robson Street though, so after we failed with a walk-in, we reserved a spot for the next day.

http://www.joefortes.ca

Medina Cafe

Wolves Breakfast at Medina Cafe in Vancouver, Canada

What a good place for brunch. I usually don't feel like deciphering "super cool" dish names on menus before noon, but I was pleasantly surprised by what I got at Medina Cafe. Their Wolves Breakfast was basically a meat sampler of cured flat iron steak, double smoked Medina bacon, Andouille & Merguez sausages, and eggs on the side. It's a hip, lively place that's seems to attract a good crowd, so I'm pretty glad that we stopped by and got in only after a little wait. 

http://www.medinacafe.com


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Hong Kong

Maybe the most photogenic city in the world, Hong Kong is also a favorite of mine.

Hong Kong Central skyline at sundown - [BUY PRINT]

Hong Kong Central skyline at sundown - [BUY PRINT]

Hong Kong just might be the most photogenic city I've been to, and it's certainly one of my favorites. 

From its condensed skyline of modern skyscrapers and sky bars giving panoramic neon views to the rusted cart pushers, outdoor food markets and alley-side eateries below them, there was never a dull moment in this buzzing city.

A taxi under neon signs around Jordan. - [BUY PRINT]

A taxi under neon signs around Jordan. - [BUY PRINT]

On my first visit back in 2009, I had one thought in my mind: The Fifth Element. The city just had that vibe, especially the scene when the Chinese food vendor flies his old school boat back into the 23rd century cityscape. 

Lan Kwai Fong (LKF) is fun for bars, clubs, drinks on the street and watching street performances.

Lan Kwai Fong (LKF) is fun for bars, clubs, drinks on the street and watching street performances.

Some notable sightseeing spots that I've been to are:

  • Tian Tan Buddha - Riding gondolas on a windy day over the Tung Chung Bay and mountaintops leading up to it didn't work well for my fear of heights, but seeing the Buddha up close and some kung fu performances below were amazing.

  • The Peak - It probably has the most famous view of Hong Kong as it gives a gorgeous, panoramic view of the city. Catching the tram from the bottom is pretty neat. I was told by resident Jess that heading down Lugard Road gives an even better view, so I'll have to do that next time.

  • Temple Street night market - A busy night market full of anything and everything. There's some delicious food spots in the area, some with outdoor seating. I particularly loved the clams in black bean sauce at a couple places.

  • Aqua - This slightly upscale bar high above Tsim Sha Tsui has an amazing view of Hong Kong to stare out and be in awe at.

  • A Symphony of Lights - How impressive does a citywide light show sound? Hong Kong's skyscrapers put one on every night at 8PM, with music and everything. We watched it from the Avenue of Stars [map].

I ended up returning to Hong Kong on business twice in 2017. My team and I designed and put on an exhibit at Hong Kong's PMQ for a client. I had never heard of this place before but it's actually a worth checking out, especially for those who are into art and boutique fashion.

PMQ on Aberdeen Street in the SoHo area of Hong Kong

PMQ is an old police quarters that was converted into an exhibit space for creators of all types. It's basically a mall full of pop-up type of shops displaying and selling work. Even Jessica Alba has stopped by.

Through this work and with a little help from Instagram, I was able to get to know some cool people living in Hong Kong. We all happened to share the hobby of photography, and some were even kind enough to take my colleague and I out one night to show us some great photo spots around Jordan station.

They take incredible photos: Jess (@jesso), Edward (@edwardkb), Jeremy (@rambler15), Candy (@flosslai), Varun (@vnthota), Susan (@shalalasusan) and Roger (@roger89). 

They each have their own unique styles, and it's interesting to see different takes and perspectives on Hong Kong and life there. Talented people with impressive accounts, I recommend checking them out.

Temple Street night market, shot from a corner rooftop at Temple St and Jordan Rd

Temple Street night market, shot from a corner rooftop at Temple St and Jordan Rd

A bus driver waiting near the Temple Street night market

A bus driver waiting near the Temple Street night market

A taxi drives up a hill near the SoHo area

A taxi drives up a hill near the SoHo area

Hong Kong I learned, like most cities, has its fair share of struggles. One of the bigger, long term ones is political as it surrounds their relationship with China. I found that residents seem divided on the issue.

Day-to-day, visible changes can be seen as well. One of these impacts any traveler who likes photography like me, which is the taking down of the city’s iconic neon signs. The dismantling will forever change Hong Kong's cityscape, and it is apparently happening at a rapid pace.

Neon signs in the Jordan area // Apparently these signs were already taken down

Neon signs in the Jordan area // Apparently these signs were already taken down

Hong Kong is diverse as a city. To me, it's a blend of big city Tokyo, NYC grunge and a slight, exotic Southeast Asia vibe overlaid with modernity. It’s also extremely international - both China’s and the UK’s cultural influences are strongly felt, and there's people from all over the world on every street.

Carrying a camera at all times was a must for me. There's so much to see and snap down low and up high, and the layers of the city produces some amazing lights and shadows, as well as unique angles to shoot from.

Shadows at a Hong Kong Culture Centre corridor - [BUY PRINT]

Shadows at a Hong Kong Culture Centre corridor - [BUY PRINT]

Hong Kong also has a lot of good food. During my stay, there was only one place that I didn't care for. The rest, delicious. I haven't even touched the surface yet, but here's a few places worth another visit:

 

Yum Cha

A restaurant that puts a modern twist on traditional dishes like dim sum. They have a couple of locations, I went to the one in Central. They're best known for their cute BBQ Piggy Buns, but make sure to order others from their à la carte menu as it's got some choices full of flavor.

Another place that I thought was similar was Social Place, between Central and Sheung Wan.

http://yumchahk.com

 

Leaf Dessert

A small, very local, outdoor eatery on a slanted space located on a street corner. As you could guess from their name, their desserts are their specialty, and their rice balls with sugar coconut sesame were delicious. They're warm, which caught me by surprise, but it has a familiar texture and taste if you've had Japanese mochi. Their food was just as simple yet tasty, like their stewed beef noodles. Worth a stop, especially if you're in the SoHo area.

TripAdvisor

 

Ding Dim 1968

Delicious dim sum, unless you're also the type to order too much because everything looks good and end up overeating. That was us. Everything is good, but standouts were the crab roe shumai (first photo) and mango mochi (second photo).

http://www.dingdim.com

 

Sun Kee

It's like a perfect good college student's meal. This place was recommended to me by @geekyrizki on Instagram and is a nice little fast food spot. There's a couple locations, I went to the one in Wan Chai. It's as simple as can be: Instant ramen noodles, sliced grilled pork, a sunny side up egg with cheese sauce over everything. Paired with their Hong Kong milk tea, it's a nice, quick, cheap, local meal to fill up on.

TripAdvisor


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Bali: Nau Villas - An Immersive Ubud Stay

My review on Nau Villas - A relaxing Ubud getaway that seamlessly and luxuriously immerses you in the surrounding nature

An arial shot of Nau Villas Ubud in Bali

Have you ever arrived at a hotel and thought, do I really need to leave and sightsee?

Actually, I'll start from the beginning. Have you ever been on a trip and as you were headed to your hotel wondered, where the hell am I?

I was on a trip to Bali, staying in Seminyak and Ubud, and those were my first two thoughts when I arrived at Nau Villas.

We caught a taxi up from Seminyak, and after getting lost hitting a collapsed bridge, we made a turn onto an old road that was more broken rocks than road. With the car's shocks being severely tested, I looked around, saw only rice fields and thought, where are we?!

Rice fields outside of Nau Villas, Ubud, in Bali

Any and all worries disappeared after checking in.

After the lime-mint slush welcome drink and the golf cart ride down to our villa, I knew that this would be an amazing stay.

Here are 5 reasons it was:

1. Beautiful, spacious rooms

Nau Villas room

The rooms are decorated nicely - they feel luxurious yet authentic. The high ceiling made it feel even more spacious as did the big window doors that open out to the private pool deck area.

There's a Bang & Olufsen speaker if you want music as well as a nicely sized flatscreen TV.

We had room #3 (there are 10 total) which was towards the higher end of the road closer to the reception area. Even though there were rooms above and below, it almost felt like we were all alone at the resort. It's a perfect environment to kick back and relax, especially on the comfy king-sized bed.

2. Outdoor bathroom 

Outdoor bathroom with shower and tub at Nau Villas Ubud, Bali

I'll admit, the outdoor bathroom took some getting used to. There aren't many cases where using the toilet, taking a shower or soaking in a bath is a "public" experience.

Once I realized that the villas are thoughtfully designed for privacy even when there are no doors or walls, I became ok being in nature when nature called.

Being able to look up at the star-filled night sky while taking a shower actually helped perfect the Bali experience. After all, it doesn't make sense to stay in the middle of rice fields only to use a small, enclosed bathroom, right? 

3. Private pool area

Private pool at Nau Villas, Ubud in Bali

The private pool area was amazing. The water itself was a little too cold to be honest, but cooling off in your own pool on a hot Bali day is nothing to complain about. 

With the table for two set up on the deck, we used this area to have breakfast as well as watch sunsets.  The area is open with no walls, and because the pathway is below the deck, there was never anyone getting in between us and the surrounding nature.

4. Great food service

Breakfast at Nau Villas, Ubud in Bali

Nau Villas basically had an all-you-can-eat breakfast that they'd bring to our room and set up for us so that we could eat poolside.

There were several categories to choose from for breakfast, and you can choose something from each or just order one thing.

  • Drinks: 5 different coffees, 6 teas, hot chocolate and milk

  • Tropical fresh fruit salad

  • Fresh fruit juice: Watermelon, H. melon, papaya, pineapple, orange

  • Healthy juice: Carrot and Ginger on the Green, Spicy Ginger Pineapple, The Beetroot Sun, The Minty Cucumber

  • Cheese platter

  • Cereal

  • Pastries: Pancakes, waffles, toast, croissant, danish, French toast

  • Yogurt

  • Smoothie bowls: Dragon Bowl (mango, banana, dragonfruit, mixed berries, coconut milk), Be Strong (mango, banana, pineapple, coconut milk), Coconut Breeze (red dragonfruit, pineapple, banana, coconut water)

  • Egg dishes: 7 different styles of eggs, omelets and a condiment on the side

  • Indonesian dishes, breakfast salad bowl, Balinese healthy breakfast options of Loloh or Jamu Kunyit

My personal favorites were the eggs benedict, Vietnamese coffee and all of the smoothie bowls.

Poolside breakfast at Nau Villas, Ubud in Bali

5. Luxurious service

What's a resort getaway without good service, right?

Despite only opening in December 2017, 5 months before our stay, the staff operated like veterans from the time Esty, one of the receptionists, helped us with our reservation.

They were all extremely accommodating, helpful and patient. They also seemed to genuinely care about the resort - something that was obvious in the quality of service that they gave.

Convenient transportation services are available, that is, in case you want to leave.

There's a free shuttle a few times a day that transports guests to and from Ubud town, about 30 minutes away.

For about 600,000-900,000 IDR ($42-63 USD), Nau Villas also provides private, custom tours. Our driver, Kadek, who had traveled the world while previously working on a cruise ship, took us around for 2 days in which I wrote about, and explained a lot about the places we were at and about some of the local culture. 

A table near the reception area available for meals or just to relax

A table near the reception area available for meals or just to relax

Nau Villas was very carefully and impressively thought through.

Everything from the terraced villas to the villa design itself to the secluded dining tables makes you feel as if you are the only ones at the entire resort.

They provide an experience that seamlessly immerses you in the island's nature at almost every moment, never once feeling like you're not on a relaxing, spa-like getaway. 

If you're reading this and are planning to stay in the Ubud area, consider Nau Villas. It's a fantastic deal to say the least. I had a great experience and would love to stay there again sometime.

https://nauvillaubud.com

Sunset from the private pool deck at Nau Villas in Ubud, Bali

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Bali: Ubud

A visit to Ubud, with its beautiful scenery and genuine people, will be an amazing and unforgettable experience.

An aerial photo of Tegalalang rice terrace in Bali
  • Ubud is in the uplands of Bali island and home to about 74,000 people

  • The area is known for its rice terraces, Hindi temples, rainforests and deeply rooted traditions

  • About 3 million tourists visit each year and it’s the most popular destination in Bali


As the first rice field came into view from my taxi window, I knew Ubud had some beautiful sights in store. And that it did.

Ubud, which is a couple hours north of the busier Seminyak and Kuta areas, is probably best known for its picturesque rice terraces and monkey forests. It can also be a great hub due to its location in relation to a lot of the popular sightseeing spots.

Incredibly popular with foreigners, Ubud (and Bali as a whole) actually struggles with balancing its accommodation of tourists with keeping its vast swaths of countryside undeveloped. Being from Hawaii, this isn't such an unfamiliar issue.

As our driver put it, buying cheap land and developing villas here is a good investment, he even recommended it to me, but tourists come here for the empty fields and ability to relax in nature.

We stayed at the beautiful Nau Villas, a newer getaway in one of those secluded areas and about a 30 minute ride from Ubud town.

They provided us with a private driver for about 600,000-900,000 IDR ($42-63 USD) per day, which included gas, parking and everything besides entrance fees.

Our driver, Kadek, a villa staff from nearby who began his career traveling the world while working on a cruise ship, insisted that even if we took a couple hours longer, the price would be the same because his priority was for us to have a good experience.

He was one of many locals that we encountered on the trip that showed us incredible hospitality.

We decided on splitting the majority of our exploration into two full-day trips.

Day 1

Visits to Tirta Empul Water Temple, Tegenungan waterfall, coffee tasting at Uma Pakel, and the Tegalalang rice terrace.

Tirta Empul Water Temple

People bathing at the Tirta Empul water temple in Bali

Witnessing Balinese Hindus take part in ritualistic purification under the morning sun at Tirta Empul Water Temple was amazing.

Seeing them rinse themselves under the spring fountains, under all except for the last few which are in the case of a death in the family, was easily the most interesting despite this area being only one part of the temple.

Wearing a sarong (traditional skirt, required at most temples) which was given at the entrance, we explored the different areas of the temple for about 30 minutes, spending most of the time at the bath. While we didn't enter the water ourselves, it was still a fascinating and unforgettable Balinese experience.

Tegenungan waterfall

Tegenungan waterfall in Bali

Fresh legs were gone after the Tegenungan waterfall. Getting to the falls required hiking down several flights of steep steps and of course, it's one way in, one way out. It's no wonder our driver waited in the parking area.

The river banks below the falls are separated by makeshift log and bamboo bridges, and are made for photo-taking tourists. There are photo props, a swing, some lovey dovey painted areas and "bird nests" to sit in. This type of thing tends to be at a lot of attractions around Bali.

Uma Pakel coffee tasting

Coffee and tea tasting at Uma Pakel in Ubud, Bali

"Shit coffee" as it was described to us by our funny host at Uma Pakel.

Before the trip, I had no idea about Balinese or Indonesian cuisines, but I knew about their coffee. Drinking some Kopi Luwak in Bali, was definitely on the list.

Bali is one of the prime locations for Kopi Luwak, but locals don't really drink it. Being one of the world's most expensive coffees due to the long process beginning by the civet weasel eating the best coffee cherries and then pooping them out, its cost is several times that of a normal cup of joe and hardly reasonable.

For about 49,000 IDR ($3.50 USD) per person, the tasting included about 14 different coffees and teas from ginseng coffee to lemongrass tea. A cup of smooth Kopi Luwak was only about $5 USD more. Take that, Starbucks.

Tegalalang Rice Terrace

Tegalalang rice terrace in Ubud, Bali

Our afternoon ended here, and it's so easy to see why the Tegalalang rice terrace is one of Bali's more iconic spots. The curves of each rice field tier, the shades of green and 3PM afternoon sun created an amazing landscape to wander around.

While there's some noise from crowds and traffic around the edges of the rice terraces, the fields themselves were quite peaceful.

Some of the walking paths are free to explore, but others require a 10,000 IDR ($0.70 USD) per person or so fee. The rice terrace wasn't packed, but going deeper into the paid areas got us further from other tourists and the noise from the swings and cafes along the perimeter.

This was, as expected, one of the more memorable sights of the trip and would top my list if I were in town again.

Day 2

We headed further out from Ubud on the second day, stopping at the Sangeh Monkey Forest [map] before making our way to Pura Ulun Danu and Tanah Lot temples.

Sangeh Monkey Forest

A monkey sits by a pool of water at Sangeh Monkey Forest in Bali.

If you can't tell by the big monkey statue at the park entrance, the monkeys run the forest here.

Apparently, the monkeys at Sangeh are said to be a little less aggressive than the more heavily visited forest in Ubud town. Still, as we found out, it's best to be ready to be jumped.

A park guide was nice enough to take us in, serving as a monkey snack provider, photographer and bodyguard. He did try to sell us a cheesy tourist photo at the end which we politely declined. We gave him a tip instead.

Pura Ulun Danu temple

Pura Ulun Danu temple in Bali

Creatively built to give the illusion that it’s floating on water, the temple sits in a lake that happens to be inside a big crater.

The temple grounds resemble a nicely kept park, the type you'd bring some sandwiches to for a picnic. 

The climate is crisp and cool, and the surrounding area is beautiful with its terraced landscapes. According to our driver, many of Bali's villas and resorts use fruits and vegetables grown in this region.

Tanah Lot temple

Sunset from Tanah Lot temple in Bali

Weaving through traffic, we made it out to the island's west-facing shore to Tanah Lot temple. The temple is most famous for the peninsula that jets out in the ocean and the sunsets that happen behind it.

We walked the shoreline, exposed by the low tide, just before sunset. A couple thing's are for sure: Tanah Lot gets crowded with tourists and if there's anything that bridges international cultures together, it's the struggle to get the perfect picture to upload and share.

We finished off the day with the temple's Kecak dance, a ritualistic performance done around sunset. Smaller than the one at Uluwatu temple, it was still entertaining, although some members seemed to just go through the motion while others gave it their all.

Our last day was spent relaxing at the villa and getting gifts to bring home.

There were a couple of good markets selling a little Ubud to bring back. Delta Dewata on Jl. Raya Andong street [map] is the biggest with a wide selection. Be ready for an outdated checkout if you pay with card though - outdated as in they write your transaction with pen and paper outdated. The other is Pepito which is a slightly upscale, Bali version of Whole Foods.

East Bali Cashews and Vel Moriz (IG) chocolates were some good, non-coffee picks. Stay away from alcohol though, prices were ridiculously high - 1,560,000 IDR ($110 USD) Johnnie Walker Black Label high!

A rice field worker sits at the Tegalalang rice terraces in Ubud, Bali

My time in Ubud was one I will remember. In some ways, like I mentioned, it reminded me of my home in Hawaii. Ti leaves, coconuts and beaches, yes, but also an island struggling with the costs and benefits of development, foreign tourism and investments.

There was a closeness in the people that I also saw, though. We came across a few neighborhood ceremonies where everyone in the town had gathered together at their local temple. Seeing that as well as our driver's friendly interactions with so many that we came across got me realizing that at the end of the day, the people around Ubud seem to have a good grasp on what's really important in life.


Tukies Coconut Shop

If you only have one meal out in Ubud, making it Tukies ice cream may not be such a bad idea. Really. Credit to my friend Rayna for this awesome rec, Tukies' coconut ice cream was instant love. Creamy and fresh, it's probably the best I've had. We went twice, by the way, and there's no shame in admitting it.

TripAdvisor
Map


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Bali: Seminyak

A resort area where tourist life often intertwines with local life.

Sunset in Seminyak, Bali
  • Seminyak is an area in the southern part of Bali, just north of Kuta

  • The area is one of the busier areas of the island and is home to a lot of expats


Exploring local streets, markets and temples in the day before going "home" to relax in an affordable villa. If that sounds like a good trip, you’ll like Bali.

The Seminyak and Kuta areas of Bali are probably busier than you’d imagine if you’ve only seen those photos of tourists having remote beaches to themselves or swinging all alone over rice terraces. The Seminyak/Kuta/Denpasar area is clearly the city area of the island.

While Bali is known for its private villas and resorts, tourist life is not all that separate from that of the locals. Villas tend to be walled off and secluded which provides some nice peace and quiet, but one step outside and you're part of the everyday buzz there.

Beach in Seminyak, Bali

From the Airport

Getting from Ngurah Rai International Airport to the villa wasn’t exactly smooth. With no train or large mass transit system, there’s a group of non-meter taxi drivers that immediately swarm you for your business.

The light blue Blue Bird taxi is known to be the most legit, but I mistakenly flagged down a lookalike "Blue Biro." Tricked. We ended up paying only about $5USD more, so no real harm done other than to the ego.

The Villa

Where we stayed

We stayed at the Aksari Villa, between the main Jl Raya Legian and Jl Sunset roads. From the fresh coconut juice they gave at check-in until the time we checked out, service was great and they were keen on making sure everything was going well for us.

There are only several rooms at the villa, each with a private pool, outdoor shower and breakfast included, it was a nice little gem to wake up and come home to. They also provide transportation and more romantic services like floating breakfasts in the pool.

During the day, we explored some nearby local areas.

One stop was Pasar Taman Sari market [map] which was a short taxi ride away. This is a local market where vendors are selling things from fruits and vegetables to little knick knacks, while some are chopping up chicken (already dead!). The market isn't that big, it only takes about 10 minutes to go through.

Fruit stand at Pasar Taman Sari market

Fruit stand at Pasar Taman Sari market

A moped drives through Pasar Taman Sari market

A moped drives through Pasar Taman Sari market

Walking down Jl Raya Kerobokan street from the market, we checked out Jl Kayu Aya street, an area geared to tourists with upscale coffee shops and fashion boutiques. Prices are a little bit higher here than comparable local shops elsewhere, but there are nice spots worth stopping at like the Corner House, a coffee shop and cafe with westcoast vibes. There's also a delicious gelato shop here that I'll show below.

Like I mentioned, this part of Bali is busier than you'd probably expect. Kuta is a surf and party town full of rowdy foreigners and Seminyak is its neighbor. As one taxi driver put it, "People like to come here to do what they can't do back home."

The city is moped-first, and during rush hour, cars are bumper-to-bumper while mopeds weave in and out of every small crease their drivers can find. Definitely give yourself ample time to get to places, because most streets are one-lane only, and traffic here is no joke. The more relaxing, quieter locations tend to be outside of this area.

A man sits on his moped in Bali.
A man grilling on the street in Bali

People in Bali are quite nice. They're generally laid back and many of them like to engage in conversation, especially the taxi drivers. Most of the people that we encountered displayed great hospitality and tried to show us a good time.

The only grouch we came across was the ticket person at Uluwatu Temple who got mad because we didn't have the exact amount of cash for tickets and needed change.

Uluwatu Temple

Getting to places like Uluwatu Temple can be done by taxi or by asking hotel staff to schedule transportation.

From the Aksari Villa, we had a taxi driver drive us in traffic for about 2 hours to Uluwatu temple and back again. He even patiently waited for us at the temple. This is normal for them to do and you'll see a lot of drivers hanging around outside popular tourist destinations.

Uluwatu Temple at sunset

Uluwatu Temple at sunset

Uluwatu Temple at sunset is an absolute must. The area hangs beautifully over a large cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean and it made me realize instantly why Bali sunsets are famous.

The Kecak dance performance done on the temple grounds is really popular, but we missed the entrance due to traffic and only could catch glimpses of it from the outside. The chants, however, filled the air as the sun went down.

Sunset off of Uluwatu Temple in Bali

Seminyak is a great first stop for Bali travels. The two nights that we spent there helped us get acclimated and provided a launching pad to our next stop: Ubud.

We also had some great food in Seminyak, and I'd highly recommend a few spots to anyone who visits the area.


Warung Babi Guling Pak Malen

Wow. What. Is. This. That was the reaction in my head when I started eating this suckling pig, or babi guling.

Traditionally for ceremonial events, babi guling is now mainstream and consists of different parts of the outdoor-roasted pig, along with mixes of spices (sambal) that become a sort of salsa.

Pak Malen's was hands down the best I ate in Bali. It's a hectic, local-like spot that is absolutely a must-go. Even the soup, which my amateur tongue said "chicken noodle soup with curry," was amazing.

http://babi-guling-pak-malen.business.site
TripAdvisor

 

Bambu

Even nicer than expected. Bambu's often on foreign residents' Bali guides and I can see why. The setting was beautiful with tables right above koi-filled water, and food was good. 

Favorites included the Bebek Betutu (slow roast duck with galangal and lemongrass, toasted coconut and green bean salad) and Udang Tim Ketumbar (Steamed prawn and glass noodles in banana leaf with coconut and coriander). While the portions were small, the entire dinner for 2 was only about $90 USD.

http://bamburestaurant.business.site
TripAdvisor

 

Gelato Factory

"Gelato is always a good idea." That's on the Gelato Factory's wall and it's easy to see why.

This was a nice find on Jl Kayu Aya street, an area geared to westerners and tourists. Yes, the wall decor, hanging lights and customers' Instagram posts in wood frames are cute, but the Gelato Factory backs up the show - they serve around 30 flavors of some fantastic gelato. And they're not just tasty and refreshing, they're made from local, natural ingredients and the shop even works hard to keep them all healthy.

http://gelatofactorybali.com
TripAdvisor


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Singapore

Very international, Singapore is full of culture, food and architecture to explore.

The lights from Marina Bay Sands reflects off water in Singapore

If there’s a central meeting place for the East and West, it just might be Singapore.

I visited Singapore a couple times for work but managed to make sure I fit in some exploration, mostly during the evenings as you will see. I really didn’t know what to expect as I only had the stereotypical images in my mind: Strict rules and all about business.

To cut to the chase, Singapore’s great for a short trip. 

Downtown Singapore skyline at night

From its modern, waterfront skyline to its character slash culture-rich local streets and alleys, you can get a pretty broad experience in a really small space.

Singapore isn’t that big. A 30 minute Uber or taxi ride will get you to most places, yet you come across an easily visible range of architecture, languages and cultures. It does, after all, take up only about 2/3 the space that New York City does, but it has 4 official languages.

What does a mix of cultures often mean? Good food.

A lot of countries boast about their food, but Singapore’s actually backs up the talk. I wouldn’t call myself an adventurous eater, but basically everything I had there made me want more. If you're lost, a good place to start are food courts like La Pau Sat or the Maxwell Food Centre. (Skip to the bottom if you just want to see food stuff)

I’d also like to add that Singapore’s Cup Noodle flavors - chili crab and black pepper crab - are amazing. I cleared a 7-11 shelf before flying out, no joke.

Clark Quay

Clark Quay

Singapore did turn out to be quite an international business hub, and I’d love for another trip there. After meeting with the Singapore Tourism Board and Singapore Art Museum staff though, I learned that they are making sincere efforts to show that they’re more than simply a business destination.

One example of this is their Formula One race through the city. They also have Gardens by the Bay.

Waterfall at the Gardens by the Bay's Cloud Forest

Gardens by the Bay is a big nature park and visually, it’s impressive. It features various different attractions but two of the most popular are the Flower Dome and Cloud Forest - atrium-like enclosures that when you walk through, it feels like you’re being transported to another land.

Cloud Forest at Gardens by the Bay

Cloud Forest at Gardens by the Bay

Their Supertree Grove is another popular sight. More than a colorfully illuminated installation that sometimes does light shows, it also harvests solar energy and is used as part of the ventilation system of this environmentally friendly park.

The Supertree Grove at Gardens by the Bay with Marina Bay Sands in the background

One thing noticeable in Singapore is how photogenic its buildings are, and not just in the Marina Bay area.

A lot of the architecture, from business towers to public housing, is symmetrical with leading lines, contrasting windows and halls, and splashes of color accents. In other parts of the city, buildings were painted in vibrant color combinations and ethnic patterns.

Rochor Centre

Rochor Centre

Esplanade Bridge at the mouth of the Singapore River

Esplanade Bridge at the mouth of the Singapore River

As someone who enjoys urban photography, it’s an amazing place to wander and take snapshots of and I only wish I had more time to do just that. Here’s to hoping I’ll be visiting sometime again.

There is a Singaporean photographer I met who really captures the lines and angles of Singapore's urban landscapes, Yafiq Yusman. Check out his Instagram: @_yafiqyusman_

A boat streaks by the Marina Bay Sands in Singapore

Singapore has a lot of nice restaurants and bars, and being the international place that it is, some of them reminded me of places you'd find in cities like Los Angeles.

Here were some of the spots that I enjoyed:

  • Palm Beach Seafood - An award winning restaurant with outdoor deck seats looking out at Marina Bay Sands that's best known for their chili crab

  • TAP - An craft beer bar in the theater part of the Capitol Piazza

  • Wine Connection - A trendy spot to get a group together for wine and tapas after work

  • District 10 - An American-esque happy hour spot with a buy 1 get 1 free drink deal

  • Hillman Restaurant - Good family-style Chinese

  • The Projector - In the backside parking lot area, there's a cool little rooftop bar for casual hangouts

But if I'm lucky enough to make it back to Singapore again, these would be at the top of my list.


Jumbo

While the difference was ever so slight compared to places like Palm Beach Seafood, I found Jumbo's chili crab to be my favorite. It had a nice balance of spicy and sweet, and the sauce is great over their fried rice. Their black pepper crab had more of a flavor kick and was just as amazing. Every dish that we had was really tasty. The restaurant is quite big and with decent service. If you're in Singapore, chili crab is a must, and you can't go wrong with Jumbo.

https://www.jumboseafood.com.sg
Map

River South Hoe Nam Prawn Noodle House

River South Hoe Nam Prawn Noodle House

A fantastic recommendation by our Airbnb host, "Tangoh." This street-side, open-air eatery is extremely causal but wow, their prawn noodles were amazing and blew away my expectations. Their broth, made from boiling pig tail and prawn soup stock for several hours, results in a spicy, flavorful punch to the tastebuds. It may not be the most photogenic dish, but boy does its taste make up for it.

http://www.riversouthprawnnoodleshouse.sg
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Tokyo: Best Cherry Blossom Spots

Must-see cherry blossom locations around Tokyo - popular spots, lesser known areas and one that’s only open for 3 hours.

Cherry blossoms over the Meguro river in Nakameguro, Tokyo

While Tokyo is more or less a concrete jungle, there are some gorgeous cherry blossom, or sakura, spots check out.  

Here’s a concise list of my favorites that I’d recommend - From really popular spots to ones that crowds haven’t yet begun to flood, and one that is only open for 3 hours a year (yes, you read that right).

Meguro River at Nakameguro

Cherry blossom tunnel in the evening over the Meguro River - [BUY PRINT]

Cherry blossom tunnel in the evening over the Meguro River - [BUY PRINT]

The Naka-Meguro area of the Meguro River is a cherry blossom tunnel made up of about 800 trees that span an almost 2.4 mile (4 km) area. 

Both day and night are really different experiences. The daytime is a bit calmer with people going for a stroll under the flowers. Evenings on the other hand, become somewhat of a light-up festival with pink lanterns, food stands with outdoor eating and drinking, and illuminated trees that are lit until 9PM.

STATION: Naka-Meguro
TRAINS:
Hibiya line, Tokyu Toyoko line
MAP

 

Tokyo Midtown

Cars leave light trails as they pass under illuminated cherry blossoms at Tokyo Midtown in Roppongi.

Cars leave light trails as they pass under illuminated cherry blossoms at Tokyo Midtown in Roppongi.

On the side and in the back of Tokyo Midtown, a multi-purpose, upscale shopping area in Roppongi, is Sakura-dori, a street lined with cherry blossoms.

Evenings are the most popular time to visit as the trees are illuminated to create a peaceful sakura getaway in the middle of Tokyo. The lights are a pink color while the flowers are blooming and become white once they've reached full bloom. 

The area is also heavily visited during the day as crowds wait to enter Midtown at its 11AM opening so they can rush for a balcony seat at Napule [J], an Italian restaurant that sits right above the cherry blossom-lined street.

STATIONS: Roppongi, Nogizaka
TRAINS:
Oedo line, Hibiya line, Chiyoda line
MAP

 

Ark Hills

Illuminated cherry blossoms over a street at Ark Hills

Illuminated cherry blossoms over a street at Ark Hills

This location is oddly left off a lot of lists on major blogs, websites and YouTube videos for some reason, but it definitely shouldn’t be. For those looking for picturesque cherry blossoms without a crowd, this might be the best spot in Tokyo.

Above Roppongi-itchome station is the Ark Hills business area. During cherry blossom season, they have a little sakura festival in their open space with food and drink stands and the streets around the buildings are lined with about 150 cherry blossom trees.

STATION: Roppongi-itchome
TRAIN:
Namboku line
MAP

 

Nogawa

Illuminated cherry blossoms in Nogawa during their light-up event.

Illuminated cherry blossoms in Nogawa during their light-up event.

This part of the No River is beautifully lined with cherry blossoms draping over it. While it’s open to the public at all times, the real spectacle is their evening light-up that spans 930 yards (850 meters) - but there’s a catch.

There is no schedule for it. This light-up is only announced 2 days prior to the actual event in places like the Japanese website below (you’ll have to keep checking it and running Google Translate over it) and is held for 3 hours on one evening only.

It’s about a 15-20 minute walk from Kokuryo station on the Keio line.

STATION: Kokuryo
TRAIN:
Keio line
http://www.arc-system.co.jp/archive [J]
MAP

 

Nihonbashi - Kayabacho

A tunnel of cherry blossoms in the Kayabacho area of Nihonbashi, Tokyo - [BUY PRINT]

A tunnel of cherry blossoms in the Kayabacho area of Nihonbashi, Tokyo - [BUY PRINT]

The Kayabacho area of Nihonbashi is Tokyo’s cherry blossoms in the most natural state for a city. It’s not in a park or garden, it’s not in some development, it simply creates a tunnel in a typical Tokyo neighborhood.

People simply go about their business here. It’s not overcrowded with people, it’s just typical scenes of life in the big city under a few blocks of cherry blossoms.

STATION: Kayabacho, Nihonbashi
TRAINS: Hibiya Line, Tozai Line, Ginza Line, Asakusa Line
MAP

 

Ueno Park

Cherry blossoms over a main walkway in Ueno Park

Cherry blossoms over a main walkway in Ueno Park

One of Tokyo’s biggest parks, Ueno park has cherry blossom trees everywhere - about 800 of them - and during the season, you’ll find a lot of picnickers taking part in “hanami,” or cherry blossom viewing. It's a good place to join in on the fun with a mat and some food and drinks of your own.

There is one main walkway that is fully covered with the sakura trees, as well as around the Shinobazunoike pond [MAP] area a little south of it. You’ll find a lot of park-goers riding foot paddle boats on the lake, enjoying the season as well.

STATION: Ueno
TRAINS:
Yamanote line, Ginza line, Hibiya line, Keihin-Tohoku line, Utsunomiya line, Joban line and more
MAP

 

Chidorigafuchi

A night scene of cherry blossoms lining the moat at Chidorigafuchi

A night scene of cherry blossoms lining the moat at Chidorigafuchi

On the northwest corner of the Imperial Palace grounds, the Chidorigafuchi area is full of cherry blossoms lining the moat's banks.

A tunnel of about 260 trees covers a walkway that runs alongside the moat, where people enjoy rowing around the blossoms in small boats during the day.


STATION:
Kudanshita
TRAINS:
Hanzomon line, Shinjuku line, Tozai line
MAP

 

Nakano

A train passes through a tunnel of cherry blossoms in Nakano, Tokyo.

A train passes through a tunnel of cherry blossoms in Nakano, Tokyo.

2 km of cherry blossoms line the streets of Nakano, making for a nice walk. The area holds a festival on the weekend during the season at Arai Yakushi Park [MAP] which is along the cherry blossom lined Nakano-dori Ave.

This is also a photo spot since the Seibu Shinjuku railway passes through, and its occasional yellow-colored train cars add a nice contrast to the pinkish-white flowers.

STATIONS: JR Nakano, Araiyakushi-Mae
TRAINS: Chuo Line, Sobu Line, Tozai Line, Seibu Shinjuku Line
MAP

 

Sakuragaokacho, Shibuya

A taxi passes through the tunnel of cherry blossoms at Sakuragaokacho in Shibuya

A taxi passes through the tunnel of cherry blossoms at Sakuragaokacho in Shibuya

On the opposite side of central Shibuya is a side street with a tunnel of cherry blossoms. Its name, Sakuragaokacho even references the cherry blossoms or sakura in Japanese, and that name continues to be make perfect sense today.

You can take some nice shots from either on the side of the street itself, or across the intersection at the stairway to the pedestrian overpass.

STATION: Shibuya
TRAINS:
Yamanote line, Ginza line, Hanzomon line, Keio-Inokashira line, Saikyo line, Tokyu-Toyoko line, Shonan-Shinjuku line, Tokyo Den-entoshi line and more
MAP

 

Koishikawa Korakuen

A couple enjoys the view under cherry blossoms at Koishikawa Korakuen Garden

One of three surviving daimyo gardens in Tokyo leftover from the Edo period, Koishikawa Korakuen has been designated as culturally significant by the Japanese government. History aside, it’s a beautiful garden and the flowers during cherry blossom season further emphasizes that.

It’s a private garden, so visitors have to pay 300 yen to get in. You can grab a bento and sit under the trees for lunch, which makes for a pleasant afternoon.

STATIONS: Iidabashi, Korakuen
TRAIN:
Chuo line, Chuo-Sobu line, Namboku line, Oedo line, Yurakucho line, Tozai line, Marunouchi line
https://www.tokyo-park.or.jp/
MAP

 

Shimotakaido

A tunnel of cherry blossoms near Nihon University in Shimotakaido

One of the lesser known areas that isn’t so frequently visited for cherry blossoms is Shimotakaido, a local area along the Keio train line. Near Nihon University, there’s an area of the street with a pretty long tunnel of sakura.

In the spring when the blossoms are bloomed, there’s a small cherry blossom festival with food and drink vendors lined along the street.

STATION: Shimotakaido
TRAIN:
Keio line
MAP

 

Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden

Cherry blossoms hanging near a lake in Shinjuku Gyoen Park

In the Shinjuku area is Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, a large 143-acre park with various gardens, lakes and a greenhouse. It’s considered to be one of the most important gardens from the Meiji era.

The park is private, so visitors have to pay 500 yen to get in. Rules are also pretty strictly enforced so there’s no alcohol allowed. It’s a fairly quiet area in the middle of Shinjuku and visitors are generally calmer and reserved than the other cherry blossom areas.


STATIONS:
Shinjuku Gyoenmae, Shinjuku Sanchome
TRAIN:
Marunouchi line, Shinjuku line
http://www.env.go.jp/garden/shinjukugyoen
MAP

 

Areas that I’m looking to check for this season for the first time are:

  • Yaesu Sakura street - Tokyo Station

  • Shin-Yurigaoka

  • Inokashira Park


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Mekong, Vietnam

A day exploring locals and their lives on the Mekong River.

Locals on a boat on the Mekong river in Vietnam

You’ll see completely different lifestyles from Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi venturing along the Mekong River for a day.

We booked a tour through The Sinh Tourist, a well known tour provider in Vietnam. They ask you to check in the day before the tour which isn’t difficult since they have a convenient Ho Chi Minh location that is centrally located. It’s also the meeting place to embark on the tour.

A woman works on a boat in the Mekong river in Vietnam

The Mekong river is the 12th longest river in the world and goes through several countries, so we really were only able to see a tiny portion of it.

The start of the tour is a couple hours outside the city by tour bus. After arriving, we boarded a boat with our group that served as our main transportation for the day.

The group's tour boat for the day

The group's tour boat for the day

The first thing immediately noticeable is how murky brown the river is. This is apparently due to the abundance of minerals in the water rather it being dirty, as we were told.

We made our way down the river, which is pretty wide, passing traps in the water and locals fishing from their boats. The Mekong river is central to many people's lives.

Visiting a rice paper maker was the first stop. While many of the ones we see in stores are more likely to be machine made, the people we saw were doing it completely by hand. Made like a crepe, the wrap is then laid on screens to dry out in the sun.

A woman making rice paper by hand.

A woman making rice paper by hand.

Lunch was held at an open dining area nearby where we shared tables and local dishes with other group members.

After our meal, it was back on the boat and up a narrower alleyway.

Tour boat headed down an alley alongside the Mekong river

Getting into buggies pulled by some small horses, we rode through a small town. It was a bit sad as the horses seemed exhausted and were being constantly hit with a small, cord-type of whip. We rode from several minutes, got off and made our way to a little gathering area where we ate some fruit while watching a local music performance.

Jumping into small wooden boats, we all made our way through a narrow waterway under a tunnel of vegetation back to our tour boat.  Each of the little boats were captained by a local that rowed us for half the journey and switched on the motor for the last half.

Riding small boats in the dense greens of the Mekong river
Boat going through the Mekong river
A man smiles while on his boat on the Mekong river

The final stop was at a local candy maker. We watched them turning an off-white liquid into a candy that I'd describe as like a coconut taffy. Poured into rows, they were dried, cut and then individually wrapped.

Coconut candy being dried at a candy maker along the Mekong river

Our river tour came to an end when our bus dropped us back off at the departure point near The Sinh Tourist's main office location. We got back in the late afternoon, leaving the rest of the night to explore the bustling city of Ho Chi Minh.


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Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

A bustling city that mixes history with modern.

Ho Chi Min, Vietnam cityscape at night

Our visit to Ho Chi Minh began with us suddenly having no place to stay.

Ho Chi Minh immediately felt like a major city after flying in one evening from Hanoi on a pretty scenic Vietnam Airlines flight

Catching a taxi from the airport, the driver decided to take quite a roundabout route, perhaps due to traffic, but it began to feel like he was milking the meter because it was more than a scenic route.

Things went a bit more off course when The Town House 50 hotel/hostel staff told us that the hotel room we reserved was given to another guest due to a “problem in another room.” We weren’t informed or re-accommodated.

So there we were that first evening with no place to stay.

We were introduced to a place next door, one where the entrance was suspiciously through the back of a barber shop. Everything was too shady to say yes to the dingy room so we took off.

With our backpacks on our backs, we began roaming the Ho Chi Minh streets going up to the front desks of any legitimate-looking hotel. Alas after a few tries, we found an available room at the centrally located A&EM 280 Le Thanh.

Ben Thanh night market in Ho Chi Minh

Our first stop was checking out Ben Thanh night market nearby, one of the most well known ones in the city. Set up like a flea market, the area is lively and booths sell everything from knock-off sneakers to random fashion items and toys.

We grabbed some food - pho and spring rolls, of course - at a crowded random eatery where a Korean TV crew was filming. Ho Chi Minh, it seemed, was a popular travel destination for Korean tourists at the time.

Moped and car traffic in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

The biggest reason we decided to stay in Ho Chi Minh was to experience the Mekong River (I’ll write about the experience in the next blog). We booked a tour through The Sinh Tourist - if you do too, keep in mind that they require you to check in before the date of your tour.

A man holds a tower of pastries on his head in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

Most of the time in Ho Chi Minh was spent wandering different areas, checking out local markets while trying to stay dry from sudden thunderstorms. We went in September, which falls in their rainy season (May thru November), and it's no joke.

You'll want to bring a rain jacket with you at all times as we had a perfectly sunny day suddenly turn into a puddle-hopping downpour in no time.

An apartment building in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

If you're looking for the best view of the city, head up to the modern Saigon Skydeck in the Bitexco Financial Tower (where the photo below and the top photo were taken). There's also EON Heli Bar which we stopped by, a modern lounge with views of the city. It can get really lively, full of tourists and expats, but the staff were helpful in getting us a seat. 

Ho Chi Minh view from the Saigon Skydeck

Ho Chi Minh is a spread out city, and places aren't as close as they may seem on the map. Luckily there are cafes and food shops here and there to stop by at. And McDonald's, of course!

Just before heading the airport, we grabbed some coffee and finished our trip off with a massage in the Ben Thanh area, a place almost like a little Japan Town.

Vietnamese coffee is really good, and even though it's a commercial chain, my favorite was found at Highlands. It's their version of Starbucks (try their Truyền thống/Traditional Blend and Di Sản/Heritage Blend) and they absolutely need to open up shops globally.

Will wait.

If you're debating which is better for a first trip, Ho Chi Minh or Hanoi though, I recommend Hanoi. Here's why.

 


Quán Thuý 94 Cũ

Crab fried rice at Quán Thuý 94 Cũ in Ho Chi Min, Vietnam

A hole in the wall joint, Quan Thuy 94 Cu specializes in Vietnamese seafood dishes. It's a really casual place, and while it's mostly filled with locals, you can tell that they're no stranger to tourists as well. Their crab fried rice definitely stuck out and they don't skimp on the crab. Definitely order it if you stop by.

TripAdvisor
Map

Che Nam Bo

I didn't realize how refreshing Vietnamese desserts were until spending the day exploring. Che Nam Bo is perfect for a quick stop. It's laid back, nothing fancy, and has the vibe of a family business in the local neighborhood. Some sweets like the coconut flan are already prepared while others are made fresh when you order.

http://www.chenambo.com


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Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

It's easy to see why Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most popular go-to spots in Vietnam.

Ha Long Bay, Vietnam [BUY PRINT]

Ha Long Bay, Vietnam [BUY PRINT]

Ha Long Bay is often the main destination when people visit Hanoi. It was mine. It's really easy to see why it's both a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the 7 Wonders of Nature as it's a vast area of miraculous islands and karsts.

We booked a one-day boat tour through The Sinh Tourist. Before the tour date, they ask you to check in at their shop so we did so the night before. Their Hanoi Old Quarter location, one of a couple, was pretty convenient. One thing to be careful of is the imposter agencies nearby. They even use the same name and logo so double check the exact location. One tip is to take a look at their email address they display at the shop, if the domain isn’t thesinhtourist.vn, that’s not it.

A tour bus came to our hotel, the Noble & Swan Boutique Hotel, early the next morning and we embarked on the roughly 3 to 4 hour ride to Ha Long Bay. The bus made a stop along the way at a center selling arts and crafts, apparel, and various drinks and snacks - a good place to use the bathroom, stretch and grab a bite.

Cruise boat to take the tour group around Ha Long Bay

As soon as the boat left the port - an area being developed with nice vacation rentals - more and more karsts began to arise out of the water and we got the feeling that we would be seeing some amazing sights. 

Ha Long Bay reminded me of parts of Thailand like Koh Phi Phi. While it's more vast than the Thailand islands, the water isn't as nice and unfortunately, there are places where you can see some trash floating around. Besides that, being surrounded by all of these formations really makes you feel like you're in another world. Quite Avatar-esque.

Ha Long Bay

After a Vietnamese lunch in which we shared some fried fish, vegetables, spring rolls and other dishes with the others on our table, the boat docked for the rowboat experience.

We had the option of either sitting in a group boat with a rower or go at it on our own. Like most of the others, we chose the group option.

Row boats to explore Ha Long Bay
Our rowboat captain in Ha Long Bay

Our rowboat captain didn't say a word the entire time as she likely didn't speak any English, so don't expect a guided tour. It didn't really matter for our boat, however, the sights took up enough of our attention anyway. We went through tunnels to secluded inlets surrounded by the tall rock formations, and rowed by some locals on their boats.

Rowing around Ha Long Bay
Vietnamese woman sitting in a boat in Ha Long Bay

Getting back on our cruise boat, we headed towards Dau Go island, an island known for Dong Thien Cung cave. The cave is a natural grotto full of stalactites and stalagmites that has become a major stopping point for Ha Long Bay tours.

If being around the karsts on the Bay is like being in another world, going into the cave ads another depth to it.

The inside of Dong Thien Cung cave is quite big and certain areas are illuminated with colorful lights. If you have trouble handiling closed spaces, you might find this a little challenging as the air can be a little humid and stale, and with only a few small openings to the outside.

Colorful Dong Thien Cung cave

Colorful Dong Thien Cung cave

After the caves, we returned back to the port where we boarded the bus to head back to Hanoi. We stopped at the same rest stop on the return, and arrived back at our hotel after a few hours to conclude the one-day trip. 


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Hanoi, Vietnam

A city with an authentic feel that beats expectations and leaves you wishing for more time there.

People are stuck in traffic on their mopeds in Hanoi

Vietnam, in all honesty, wasn’t high up on my travel bucket list, so I was pleasantly surprised when Hanoi blew away my expectations and became one of the cities I want to revisit the most.

We started Hanoi off with a wild taxi ride from the airport where our driver spent more of his attention taking never-ending phone calls instead of the road.

Streets in the city are similar to many other places in Asia - to describe them as chaotic would be an understatement. Navigating Hanoi's definitely requires some getting used to, and a lot of times it's hold your breath, pray you don't get hit and just walk. No exaggeration.

A huge moped traffic jam in Hanoi

WHERE WE STAYED

We stayed at the Noble & Swan Boutique Hotel, a centrally located hotel in the Old Quarter.

Upon checking in, a staff member sat us down and recommended some local eats. I had thought it was some business partner plug, but my skepticism disappeared entirely after that first bite of pho (I wrote about it below).

The hotel staff were some of the most genuinely kind people ever. One staff member even came outside as we were heading out for the day to shake our hand and explain that she would be off on our check-out day and she wanted to say thank you and goodbye. I'll definitely consider staying here again next time.

Hoàn Kiếm Lake

Hoàn Kiếm Lake

The area near the Ngoc Son Temple part of the Hoan Kiem Lake area is quite picturesque in the evening. It was a Friday, and the entire lakeside area was lively with people hanging out, enjoying food and just having some fun.

In other parts of the Old Quarter as well, friends gathered on little plastic stools along the sidewalks to eat and have drinks. This was a common sight everywhere we walked.

We took a tour to Ha Long Bay the next day. A bus came to our hotel and brought us to our boat which was a few hours away. Ha Long Bay was such a wonder and nothing short of gorgeous, you can check out my exeperience here: Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay, Vietnam [BUY PRINT]

Ha Long Bay, Vietnam [BUY PRINT]

The vibe of the city and its people are what I really enjoyed about Hanoi... of course the food too, which I'll get to later.

It's a city that has both a busy and laid back feel at the same time. Mopeds, some with as many as a family of 6 on them, zoom by constantly. It has that endless buzz of traffic and bustle, yet people are laid back, hanging out outside cafes with friends at all hours in the day, even during work hours which I found to be interesting. Most people seemed to be polite and a little reserved, and we had no issues with any attempts to rip us off or anything like that.

A family rides on a moped together in Hanoi

The central part of Hanoi is really walkable, and there's a lot you're constantly taking in. Because of that, this trip was the first time I consciously dabbled in any kind of street photography. Most locals tended to shy away from having their photo taken though, so I tried not to intrude too much.

A man sitting on a curb in Hanoi
A woman balances baskets while walking in Hanoi
A family rides together on a moped in Hanoi
A woman waits to cross the busy street in Hanoi

The only time we decided to give our feet a rest and catch a cab was visiting the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum, which sits just west of the Old Quarter area. You could sense the weight of its importance, from its vast grounds and guards to the design of the structure itself.

Ho Chi Minh mausoleum in Hanoi

Before visiting, my list of things I wanted to see and do in Hanoi was as long as maybe a few scribbles on a hotel notepad, but I left with the feeling that I needed more time. There are so many alleys or shops that continually make themselves known while you're there, and I feel the need to go back, venture around and witness life there a little more.

And finally, the food. I'm not knowledgeable about Vietnamese cuisine, but there were some things that I ate in Hanoi that I seriously couldn’t get enough of. Everything we ate and drank was tasty, super fresh and affordable. And in a city that continuously sparks curiosity? Can't ask for much more.

Here are some places I absolutely recommend trying if you visit:

 

Quán phở Gia Truyền

Pho-king delicious. This was the best bowl of pho that I've ever eaten. Period.

While there were some tourists, Pho Gia Truyen was packed with mostly locals - a good sign. It's a casual, open eatery with half of the guests eating outside on little purple plastic tables and chairs packed in every open space on the sidewalk.

They have a few different bowls to choose from, I went with their premium one which came out to less than $3 USD. Each bite was so savory, I really can't say enough about about it.  

Map
TripAdvisor

 

Bún Bò Nam Bộ

Bun bo nam bo in Hanoi

I had never heard of bun bo nam bo, and while I can't remember a lot of Vietnamese words, I won't forget this one.

This bowl of stir fried beef, vermicelli rice noodles, lettuce, bean sprouts, fried onions, chopped peanuts and more mixed in with some tangy yet citrusy sauce with a kick to it was simply amazing. It was a party of flavor in your mouth for a couple bucks US and absolutely amazing.

http://www.bunbonambo.com
Map
TripAdvisor

 

Chè 4 mùa

Drink at Che 4 Mua in Hanoi

Che 4 Mua (Tea 4 Seasons in English) is a popular dessert spot. Seating is mostly on the sidewalk on little plastic chairs, but staff come by to talk and help you with your order.

It was a warm evening so we just went with cold drinks, watching the kitchen scoop fresh fruit into the glasses and create our dessert drinks from almost scratch. The drinks were served slightly chilled and flavors were completely natural and clean. Very refreshing.

Map
TripAdvisor


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Travel Log Barrett Ishida Travel Log Barrett Ishida

Kobe

In addition to its mega-famous delicious Kobe beef, there are also a lot of other delicious eats to have in this international port city.

Kobe skyline at night from the port

Kobe beef! That’s the first thing that comes across many of our minds when we hear “Kobe.”

On my first trip to the city, I was surprised to learn that it’s actually a city with a lot of international influence and is quite well known for its pastries and sweets. Because of that, my trip to Kobe largely becoming a food tour.

We stayed at a centrally located Airbnb a couple minutes away from Sannomiya station [map], a location I’d recommend as it allows you to reach most of the main sights by foot. These are some of the places that we checked out and that I'd recommend:

Nankinmachi (Chinatown) & Motomachi

Walking to Chinatown, we passed through the Motomachi Shopping Street, a covered arcade with a lot of history. Most cities in Japan have these types of arcades, usually with a lot of older shops and places to eat.

Motomachi apparently has over 20 shops with more than 100 years of history. We grabbed a bite at Tachibana (TripAdvisor), a highly reviewed shop known for its not-so-typical fluffy, egg-puff takoyaki. Their take on this common, Osaka-grown fast food snack of fried doughy balls with octopus inside was quite a treat, and while we didn't intend to, we got full off them.

Kobe's Chinatown is on the small side but with a lot of little food spots. It's been known as Nankinmachi after the former Chinese capital ever since Chinese merchants settled in the area back in the day. 

Roushouki has some delicious steamed dumplings, the type that drips some oily goodness. The area around Chinatown has a bunch of eateries and boutiques as well.

Kitano

The streets of Kitano, a mountainside area of international buildings from when the port first opened to the world.

The area of Kitano is up the hill and a little bit away from the central part of the city, at the foot of the mountainside.

We walked up for about 20 minutes from Sannomiya, making stops along the way. The area is a mishmash of foreign influences, as a lot of merchants and diplomats settled here when the city opened up to international trade.

Put on some walking shoes for this one, because the streets and walking paths up the hills can get steep and even narrow. There are some interesting sights though, English houses next to Dutch ones, next to Danish ones which are next to Japanese ones.

Port of Kobe

What seemed like a half wedding hotel and half actual port area, the seaside of Kobe is quite nice at night. It's also quite lively.

We walked down one evening, a bit of a longer walk from Sannomiya than Nankinmachi or Kitano, and explored the area. There were a few nice hotels there, largely geared to host big wedding ceremonies and parties.

The main entertainment area is called Harborland, a place for shopping and eating. The central spot is umie Mosaic, you'll see the big "Mosaic" sight on top the building. It sits next to a ferris wheel and right along the waterfront.

A passing boat creates light trails at the Port of Kobe

For other amazing places to eat, check out these places:

 

ISHIDA

The highlight meal of the trip was, of course, Kobe beef. Ishida is centrally located near Sannomiya station, and has two floors where you sit in front of a skilled chef who prepares your meal on the teppan metal grill in front of you. For a meal of a few courses, the cost was about $300 USD for two - a little pricy but it filled us up nicely. The beef was, as expected, nothing short of incredible. Beautifully and perfectly marbled, each bite of steak was incredibly savory and juicy. 

https://kobebeef-ishida.com/
Yelp

Akaman

Akaman gyoza in Kobe

Gyoza (dumplings) are done a little bit differently in Kobe. In addition to the typical ingredients like vinegar and rayu chili oil that make up a lot of gyoza sauces in Japan, Kobe also likes to mix in miso. It's surprisingly good, too. Akaman is a tiny, cramped, old little hole-in-the-wall shop right across from Motomachi station. It's a little grungy and there was about 4 of us on a table probably meant for 1. As odd as it may be, that's a good sign of authenticity. If you're in the area, check out this place for a few little bites of deliciousness.

Yelp

A la Campagne

Peach tart at A la Campaigne, Tor road in Kobe

Right in between Sannomiya and Motomachi stations is A la Campagne, a little cafe that's a great stop for some sweets and coffee. When you enter, there's a case showcasing all the different cakes and tarts available, and in typical Japanese fashion, they all look amazing. I had a peach tart which was not too sweet, pretty light and topped with some fresh fruits. If you're in the area, pop in for a bite.

http://www.alacampagne.jp

Yelp

Freundilieb Ikuta

Sandwiches at Freundlieb Ikuta in Kobe

Located in a repurposed Neo-Gothic style church, Freundilieb Ikuta is known for its breads. It's about a 15 minute walk from Sannomiya station and is on the way to the Kitano area, making it a good place to get some sandwiches for lunch if you're on the way up. It's quite well known amongst Japanese so there can be quite a wait with people lining up along the staircase up to the main eating area. If you're in a rush, you can just go into the takeout area. They will ship it to your hotel as well, even if you'll be in another city in the country.

http://freundlieb.jp

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Travel Log Barrett Ishida Travel Log Barrett Ishida

Oahu: Favorite Spots at Home

As a local who grew up in Honolulu, these are the places on Oahu that I try to go to when I visit home.

Waikiki Yacht Harbor and Diamond Head in Honolulu, Hawaii

Honolulu is my hometown, having grown up there.

Because of that, I’m asked by a lot of friends and colleagues who plan to visit for recommendations on where to go and what to eat. Like them, I too now have a limited amount of time when I visit home, making me really have to think about where I want to make sure I go.

While the places I recommend vary depending on who's asking, these are the few core places that I find myself making a priority:

Lanikai Pillbox Hike & LANIKAI Beach

View from the Lanikai Pillboxes hike [BUY PRINT]

View from the Lanikai Pillboxes hike [BUY PRINT]

I’m not someone who looks for the most challenging hike around. I look for a good balance of view and effort, and Lanikai Pillboxes is a great one.

After the steep incline at the beginning, it's an easy hike and is quite short. For the amount of sweat you break, the view is amazing - from Waimanalo to Kaneohe, all the green and all the blue.

Parking is the biggest problem for both the hike and the beach as the area is purely residential. I’ve usually searched for street stalls around the neighborhood and been lucky enough to find a space.

MAP

After hiking, I usually head down to Lanikai Beach, just a short walk away through the neighborhood.

The beach has fine, white sand and calm, light blue waters. It's even been ranked as one of the top 25 beaches in the US on TripAdvisor. Just make sure the weather on this side of the island is good before going.

MAP

Lanikai beach, facing Kaneohe

Lanikai beach, facing Kaneohe

Haleiwa & The North Shore

The Rainbow Bridge of Haleiwa Town

The Rainbow Bridge of Haleiwa Town

The North Shore area is one of the last "Old Hawaii" type of places on the island.

I think one of the things that surprises first-timers to Honolulu is how much more of a city it is than they had thought. I’ve seen the Haleiwa area become a tourist destination in recent years, but it still resembles how things were decades ago.

Haleiwa has a laid back kind of vibe with a bunch of shops and good places to eat. Garlic shrimp at Giovanni's is my favorite (see below for more info). Matsumoto’s Shave Ice is maybe the most popular place in the area, and while I don’t think it’s the best shave ice on Oahu, it’s right there if you’re in the mood.

My friends and I usually make a full day out of a trip to Haleiwa and the North Shore. After a stop in Old Haleiwa Town [MAP], you can drive further and make stops at Waimea Bay [MAP}, Sunset Beach and Banzai Pipeline [MAP] to watch surfers ride some big waves, and even hit up roadside stands in Kahuku (they’re known for their corn) if you go that far.

Waimea Bay

Waimea Bay

Food is likely the biggest priority (alongside the beach) for Hawaii-natives who are visiting their home.

With the restaurant boom that has happened in the last few years, there's a lot of good places to choose from and try out. Out of all the options, these are my go-to places to grab a bite when I'm home:

Zippy's

I don’t think you’ll find any local who hasn’t had Zippy’s. It’s the most famous diner in Hawaii, with a bunch of locations around Oahu.

President Barack Obama, a Hawaii-native, is a fan. Bruno Mars, another local, is as well. Even President Bill and Chelsea Clinton are fans. The chili (and rice, yes, white rice) is their most famous dish, but it’s not a chili you’re used to.

It’s far from photogenic food, it’s not trendy and probably not the best deal either, but it truly is a local favorite for anyone who wants to eat what locals eat.

http://zippys.com

Waiola Shave Ice

There are a lot of great shave ice places on the island but my favorite is Waiola's.

It's original location is centrally located in town, in it's original, authentic form in a residential neighborhood. They serve some really soft, finely shaven shave ice.

There are a lot of Hawaii-only flavors - li hing mui (dried plum) and haupia (coconut pudding) being a couple of my favorites, and topping them off with condensed milk and ice cream at the bottom is amazing on a hot day.

http://www.waiolashaveice.com
Yelp
MAP


OFF THE HOOK POKE MARKET

Poke has exploded in popularity around the world but nothing is like having some at the origin. Off the Hook Poke Market is one of the more recent poke places, opening in late 2018, but it’s one of, if not the best I’ve had.

They have some really good poke flavors, so I recommend getting a 2-choice bowl. My favorites are their ginger ahi, Kilauea Fire and spicy tuna, but you can’t go wrong with any. Get all of the free toppings on top as well.

Service is great, really friendly and personable. This is a great addition to the Manoa area.

MAP

Giovanni's

When locals say “shrimp truck,” they’re usually referring to Giovanni’s.

These food trucks have become really popular for tourists and locals doing a Haleiwa and North Shore day trip, and I’ll make sure to stop by when I’m doing one as well. They’re generous with portions and with that buttery garlic sauce that drenches the plate. Yum.

http://www.giovannisshrimptruck.com

Ono Seafood

There's a lot of good poke places in Hawaii, but one of my longest go-to spots is Ono Seafood.

It's a really small, unassuming hole-in-the-wall place in the Kapahulu area, and they make some fresh poke bowls that are good for take out for the beach for lunch.

Service is good and a soft drink is included as well.

Yelp
MAP

HOME BAR & GRILL

This is a place that's probably not on a lot of travel sites or blogs, but Home Bar is big for a lot of locals.

A sports bar slash local diner atmosphere, Home Bar makes some absolutely delicious local foods and has really friendly, casual service.

Kim chee fried rice and tater tot nachos are must-eats. It does get crowded and is on the louder side, especially on weekends, but it’s one of my favorite places in Hawaii to hang out with friends.

Yelp
MAP


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