Hanoi, Vietnam
Hanoi has been Vietnam’s capital since its reunification in 1976
It’s the country’s second largest city with 8.8 million residents
A culturally rich city, French colonial heritage can also be seen
Updated in September 2026
Vietnam, in all honesty, wasn’t high up on my travel bucket list, but Hanoi blew away my expectations when I first visited in 2016. It immediately became a city I wanted to revisit, and I was fortunate to able to go there again in 2025.
Hanoi‘s walkable Old Quarter is a dream for a street photographer, especially one like myself who loves good food in the places I explore. In front of the historical buildings with French shutter windows and alongside family mopeds zooming by are eateries serving some of the most delicious meals that you could ever eat on small plastic tables and stools.
I’ll share some of the places I visited, ate at, and recommend, in my favorite city in Vietnam.
If you want a better feel for the vibe of Hanoi, check out this video from my trip:
About Hanoi
Hanoi is a fascinating city with a long history, vibrant atmosphere, and tons of delicious foods.
Vietnam’s first university, the Temple of Literature, was founded here in 1070, and is older than Oxford and Cambridge. Hanoi was later colonized by the French between 1883–1954, and their influence can still be seen today, particularly in the architecture and cuisine. Then came the Vietnam War, known locally as the American War, and Hanoi served as the command center for the North.
Stepping into Vietnam, especially North Vietnam, had always been something I felt hesitant about because of the war, but it’s become one of my favorite cities I’ve ever traveled to.
In all fairness, Hanoi can feel a bit chaotic.
My first taxi ride from the airpot was with a driver that was taking never-ending phone calls while weaving through lanes. Crossing the street takes some time to get used to - a lot of times it's hold your breath, pray you don't get hit and just walk.
But it’s this chaos that makes Hanoi so appealing.
My best advice would be to simply walk around, but since I’ve deciphered a little bit of this wild city during my visits here, I’ll highlight some of the places that I’ve been to and eaten at to give you at least some direction.
How to get there
Nội Bài International Airport is Hanoi’s airport and is about 30 km / 18.6 mi away from the Old Quarter. Its Terminal 2 is for international flights and is quite modern.
We took a taxi from the airport on both trips. Its best to use the Grab app as you can input your destination for the driver and pay with your linked credit card without communication issues.
Where to stay
During my trips, we stayed at a few different hotels, all centrally located in the Old Quarter.
On the visit, we stayed at the Noble & Swan Boutique Hotel, which was good, but it management may have changed since then. For my second visit, we first stayed at the Hanoi Exclusive Hotel. It was decent, convenient with a laundromat next door, but the bathrooms could’ve been a little better.
We also stayed at the Hanoi Le Jardin Hotel & Spa. It was a little further from the Old Quarter’s center, but still walkable. This was the most well-rounded of the hotels I stayed at. They were also very accommodating, letting us use a shower space at their office after we checked out before our night flight.
Things to do
Hoan Kiem Lake
The Hoan Kiem Lake is one of the core areas in Hanoi. In the middle of it are Ngoc Son Temple and Turtle Tower. There are always people hanging out around the lake, exercising, or playing games. At night, the two landmarks are illuminated, creating a picturesque evening view.
Hoan Kiem Lake Walking Street
The weekend evenings are when the lake truly comes alive. From Friday through Sunday, the streets around the lake are blocked off to traffic and a weekly festival is held. There are booths that open up selling fashion and accessories, electronics and more, and a lot people out for food and drinks.
On the streets directly bordering the lake, crowds gather around street performances and live music, you’ll see groups dancing and singing, food carts, and kids riding around on toy cars. The vibe is one of happiness and fun, and it feels overwhelmingly positive.
In other parts of the Old Quarter as well, friends gathered on little plastic stools along the sidewalks to eat and have drinks. This was a common sight everywhere we walked.
Hanoi Train Street
Despite being one of the most popular things to do in Hanoi, I didn’t visit the Hanoi Train Street on my first trip there. I visited on my second visit, and yes, I can confirm that it’s very touristy. However, it was quite a thrilling experience.
The rail line was built by the French in 1902, and a train passes through the narrow alley a few times a day. Alongside the tracks are various cafes and outdoor seats lined against their outside walls.
There are 2 main areas for this experience. The more popular and centrally located one is on Trần Phú Street, and the other one is off of Đ. Lê Duẩn Street, where we went and where I took the photo above.
Someone from one of the cafes will approach you, lead you to a seat and hand you a menu. You need to order something to sit there. It’s best to arrive early as it gets pretty crowded as time nears.
Shop staff will yell to tuck in your legs and stay put, and for very good reason. The train is wider than the tracks and felt extremely close, 2 ft. / 61 cm away from my knees if even that. This would not be legal in most countries as there’s really no room for error, but if you’re looking for a local thrill, this is a good one to experience.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Sitting just west of the Old Quarter area at Ba Đình Square is the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. This is the final resting place of Ho Chi Minh (formerly known as Nguyen Ai Quoc), the famous leader thought of as the "Father of the Nation" and is credited with leading Vietnam’s struggle for independence.
I visited the square on my first trip and it’s quite serene. You could sense the weight of its importance, from its vast grounds and guards to the design of the structure itself.
If you’re visiting, it’s not like other places so be sure to check the official hours, rules and the dress code.
Cerender Ceramics
There are many interesting shops around Hanoi, and Cerender Ceramics is one of them. It features various kitchenware from floor to ceiling, with dishes featuring hand-painted designs.
The ceramics are all handmade in Bát Tràng, a village known for ceramics and pottery located about 20 km / 12 mi from Hanoi.
No two items are the same, and because everything is locally made by craftsmen, this is a good place to pick up some gifts to take home.
I made a second video of my most recent time in Hanoi if you want to get more of a feel for it:
The vibe of the city and its people are what I really enjoyed about Hanoi. It's a city that has both a busy and laid back feel at the same time.
Mopeds, some with as many as a family of 6 on them, zoom by constantly. It has that endless buzz of traffic and bustle, yet people are relatively chill, hanging out outside cafes with friends at all hours in the day, even during work hours which I found to be interesting.
Most people seemed to be polite and a little reserved, and despite a fair number or tourists, especially the last time visiting, we had no issues with rip off attempts or anything like that.
The central part of Hanoi is really walkable, and there's a lot you're constantly taking in. I would recommend those who have trouble walking to be a bit careful, however, as there’s always a need to weave between mopeds and cafe tables, and the sidewalks can be a bit uneven.
Because of so much going on all the time, my first trip to Hanoi was when I first consciously dabbled in street photography. Some of my favorite street photos that I’ve taken were in Hanoi.
Before my first visit, my list of things I wanted to see and do in Hanoi was only a few scribbles on a hotel notepad, but I left with the feeling that I needed more time. There are so many alleys or shops that continually make themselves known while you're there, and even after visiting a second time, I still feel the desire to go back, venture around and witness life there a little more.
Food was a huge highlight of Hanoi and I couldn’t get enough. Everything seems tasty, super fresh and affordable. And in a city that continuously sparks curiosity? Can't ask for much more.
Below is a list of places that I’ve been to and recommend trying if you visit.
What to eat
Quán phở Gia Truyền
Pho-king delicious. This was previously the best bowl of pho that I've ever eaten before being dethroned by another Hanoi spot, but this is still a must for me.
While there are some tourists, Pho Gia Truyen is packed with mostly locals - a good sign. It's a casual, open eatery with half of the guests eating outside on little purple plastic tables and chairs packed in every open space on the sidewalk.
They have a few different bowls to choose from, I go with their premium one which came out to less than $3 USD. Each bite was so savory and everything comes together so nicely, I really can't say enough about about it.
Cộng Cà Phê
If you’re looking for a cafe with a unique vibe, this is it. Cong Ca Phe is a coffee chain that is designed like a Viet Cong military office, and it’s so immersive and realistic that I almost felt intimidated.
The cafe has a dark, hideout atmosphere, and everything in it feels like it’s used by soldiers. The coffees were great, especially their coconut coffee and salt coffee.
While this could easily be seen as gimmicky, it didn’t feel that way at all. From the drinks to the decor and even the building itself, this was a notable cafe that’s worth visiting.
Bún Bò Nam Bộ
I had never heard of bun bo nam bo, and while I can't remember a lot of Vietnamese words, I can't forget this one.
While they did remodel quite a bit between my first and second visits, their food was still delicious.
This bowl of stir fried beef, vermicelli rice noodles, lettuce, bean sprouts, fried onions, chopped peanuts and more mixed in with some tangy yet citrusy sauce with a kick to it was simply amazing. It is an amazing combination of flavors and textures in your mouth, and for a couple bucks US, you can’t go wrong.
Their nem chua ran, or fried fermented pork roll, is also good. I’d describe it as a pork McNugget, and it’s something that’d go well with beer.
Starbucks Reserve - Quang Trung
The best experience at a Starbucks. This Starbucks Reserve is the first Reserve Mixology location in Vietnam, and serves both alcohol and coffee in a French-style colonial villa.
We enjoyed two delicious coffee-based cocktails, which were delicious, but it was the staff that blew me away.
They were holding a staff-only study session about coffee pairings and invited us to join. A couple of the staff, two young women who spoke English (back row 2nd from left and second row 2nd from right in this photo), stayed by us and explained to us what was being said. They then shared the pairings with us. Before we left, they gave us a hand-written postcard in both English and Japanese wishing us a nice trip in Vietnam.
Starbucks like these are introducing a different coffee culture to a country that already has their own strong coffee culture, and it seems like they’re in good hands. It may have been an ordinary day at work for the people here, but I’ll never forget their kindness. Highly recommend.
Pho Thin
As of this writing, this is the best bowl of pho I’ve ever had. Most pho that we eat overseas is a southern-style pho, but the dish actually originated in the north. In my opinion, they do it better.
Pho Thin (there are many with similar names so make sure it’s this one) makes an incredibly savory bowl of pho. The beef is cooked before it enters the soup, so the broth becomes full of its juices, giving it a slightly charred flavor.
The result is a savory yet clean bowl full of meat, and vegetables in a clear, flavorful broth. Top notch and absolutely delicious.
Chè 4 mùa
Che 4 Mua (Tea 4 Seasons in English) is a popular dessert spot. Seating is mostly on the sidewalk on little plastic chairs, but staff come by to talk and help you with your order.
It was a warm evening so we just went with cold drinks, watching the kitchen scoop fresh fruit into the glasses and create our dessert drinks from almost scratch. The drinks were served slightly chilled and flavors were completely natural and clean. Very refreshing.
Ngan ngon Trâm
A delicious plastic seat-on-sidewalk food experience. Ngan ngon Tram was packed when we went, but luckily, the staff cleared some mopeds across the street and set up more tables for us.
We ordered a set meal for 2 which came with deep fried duck, roasted duck, and mushroom and liver soup. Everything tasted good, but the deep fried duck was simply outstanding. It had a nice crunch on the outside and was packed with intense garlic flavor.
If you’re in Vietnam, having one of these dining experiences is a great one to have and you won’t regret choosing this place to have it.
The Running Bean
A nice stop for anyone looking for a delicious coffee. The Running Bean is located in a repurposed building and has a modern vibe to it.
With a focus on the coffee craft, you can choose your beans and brewing method for a cup, or select from their menu of signature coffee drinks, matcha concoctions and teas.
We got a dirty latte (espresso, mixed milk, honeycomb) and an egg coffee. The latte was rich, creamy and delicious, and the egg coffee had an fantastic smoothness to it with a flavor reminiscent of Violet Crumble.
This was a standout cafe and definitely worth checking out.
Tuyết Bún Chả 34
This place converted me and made me like bun cha. While I’ve had bun cha at a different Michelin spot in Hanoi, it was Tuyet Bun Cha 34 that got me.
The broth for these dipping-style noodles was flavorful and tanginess was more moderate. The abundant rice noodles and fresh greens were on point, and the chargrilled pork was just amazing.
Like many places, tables are shared, but we had a friendly interaction with a local sitting next to us who made the experience even better.
There are other bun cha restaurants in the area but make sure you’re going to the right one. Go up to the staff or the woman grilling the pork out front, wait for them to accept you, and enjoy.
Maison Marou
Vietnam’s premiere chocolate brand. While Maison Marou first opened in Ho Chi Minh, they have a flagship in Hanoi that has a shop and cafe.
Whether its chocolate bars, pastries, cakes, gelato, or something completely different, Maison Marou executes them at a high level. Their chocolate bars push the boundaries of creativity while incorporating the culture in their flavors, and many bars use homegrown, handpicked cacao beans.
This high-end artisan brand is a must-visit, especially if you’re looking for a good gift to bring back with you.
Phở cuốn Vinh Phong
There’s pho and then there’s pho cuon, or rolled pho, popular on a peninsula at Hanoi’s Tay Ho lake.
Pho Cuon Vinh Phong is one of the restaurants there that serves delicious variations of pho. One is a deconstructed dry pho where the noodles are cut into squares and then deep fried. The other is like a spring roll where the noodle acts as a wrapper.
Both of these pho dishes were delicious, perfect for the casual, outdoor setup.
MONO Coffee Lab
Almost like an oasis in a hectic city, MONO Coffee Lab is a cafe that’s been recognized in Vietnam, focusing on sustainability and developing people.
While people are their focus, their locally sourced coffees don’t take a backseat. We got their Siesta, a creative blend of espresso, Earl Grey tea and milk, and their cheese coffee. Both were delicious and made even better with some of their pastries on the side.
They have both indoor and outdoor seating and their Van Ho location that we went to was tucked away off a main street, making it a cozy place to relax.
https://monocoffeelab.vn/ [VN]
Bún riêu Cô Hoàn Hàng Lược
Deep flavors come together in this bowl of noodles. Bún riêu is a traditional soup of clear stock and rice vermicelli, and Bún riêu Co Hoan Hang Luoc does it exceptionally well.
The restaurant serves several variations featuring different ingredients, and I went with a basic one. In this bowl are slices of pork in a pork broth, with flavors coming from crab, tomatoes, garlic and a whole lot more. It was unlike anything I’ve had before.
The restaurant is located in the back and in between buildings, so you’ll have to go down a narrow hallway from the street until the atrium where the tables are. If you’re looking for Vietnamese soup and noodles beyond pho and bun cha, this is the place to get it.
*This restaurant may be temporarily closed.
Là Việt Coffee
A straight-forward cafe with good coffee to kick back in. La Viet Coffee is a Vietnamese chain that focuses on local robusta coffee and small batch roasting.
Their vibe is casual and comfortable, with a good balance of trendy and serious. We stopped by for breakfast and enjoyed a good latte with a croissant and cookie on the side. La Viet, like most other places in Hanoi, have great pastries due to their history with the French.
An added bonus here is that they have nice apparel and coffee beans for sale, so you can leave with a gift to takehome.
*This specific location has closed.
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A bustling city that mixes history with modern.