Matsuyama

A view of the Setouchi Inland Sea, taken by Barrett Ishida.
  • Matsuyama is the capital city of Ehime Prefecture

  • It is most known for its onsen hot springs and mkian oranges

  • It’s the largest city on Shikoku Island, the smallest of Japan’s major islands


Matsuyama is a city located in the northwest area of Ehime Prefecture. With just over half a million people, it’s the largest city in both the prefecture and Shikoku Island as a whole.

How we got there

Because Matsuyama is on Shikoku Island, the best way to get there is by flying into Matsuyama Airport. Once in the city, the Iyotetsu trams are a convenient way to get to various destinations such as the central Okaido area, Matsuyama Castle and Dogo Onsen.

Iyotetsu tram in Matsuyama City, taken by Barrett Ishida

Iyotetsu tram in Matsuyama, Ehime - Barrettish

About Matsuyama

Matsuyama is most known for its onsen hot springs, and the most famous area for them is Dogo Onsen. It’s a quaint town area filled with many ryokans (traditional Japanese inns), shops and attractions.

It’s also home to Matsuyama Castle, which sits on a mountain in central Matsuyama, overlooking the city.

Foodwise, the area is known for mikan oranges and a dish called taimeshi (sea bream fish and rice). It’s usually cooked in one of two ways; with the fish and rice steamed together, or with the fish eaten in sashimi style with a raw egg and rice.

I visited in late 2021 and found it to be a relaxing city that exceeded my expectations, although I admit that I didn’t really have any. I recommend spending a day or two here.

I also created a video while visiting Matsuyama and Ehime Prefecture:

Where we stayed

I experienced two hotels - one by myself while I worked and one as a couple.

Dormy Inn

The first was Dormy Inn, located on Okaido shopping street, a central area in the city.

Not only was it convenient and reasonable, there was a partial open-air onsen along with great amenities, free food served at certain hours, and free desserts such as popsicles.

https://www.hotespa.net/ [J]
MAP

Hotel Kowakuen Haruka

The second hotel, Hotel Kowakuen Haruka, was a Japanese-style ryokan right off the Dogo Onsen shopping street. Our Superior Twin room was about 35 m² (377 ft²), and half the room was tatami.

The breakfast was a buffet of both Western and Japanese foods, and there’s an onsen hot spring as well.

https://www.kowakuen.com/ [J]
MAP

Both hotels were great and I recommend them.

What we did

Dogo Onsen

A photo of Asuka no Yu at Dogo Onsen, taken by Barrett Ishida.

Asuka no Yu at Dogo Onsen

Dogo Onsen is one of Japan’s most famous onsen hot spring areas, and is the main tourist destination in Matsuyama City.

The main attraction is the Dogo Onsen Honkan, a public bathhouse that dates back in 1894. It’s said to have served as an inspiration for the Miyazaki film “Spirited Away”, but unfortunately it was covered due to an ongoing renovation.

The Iyotetsu tram goes right up to the Dogo Onsen shopping arcade.

The entrance to the Dogo Onsen shopping arcade.

The shopping arcade is about 250 meters long, and has various shops selling things such as local snacks and gifts to Imabari Towels, Japan’s most famous towels that are made in nearby Imabari.

The Dogo Onsen shopping arcade, taken by Barrett Ishida.

The Dogo Onsen shopping arcade.

Botchan Karakuri Clock in Dogo Onsen, taken by Barrett Ishida

Botchan Karakuri Clock

The Botchan Karakuri Clock is right next to the shopping arcade’s main entrance. In the evenings, it comes alive.

The clock extends upwards on the hour while playing music, and its doors open as figurines move about. You can see some it in this part of my video.

Botchan Train at Dogo Onsen, taken by Barrett Ishida

The Botchan Train

The Botchan Ressha, or Botchan Train, is a small replica of a train that was used by locals for 67 years from 1888. It’s now diesel-powered and runs right to the central area of Dogo Onsen.

Dogo Onsen Starbucks in a Meiji Era building, taken by Barrett Ishida

Dogo Onsen Starbucks

Starbucks has many “special” locations in Japan that are in historically significant buildings. This one is right in Dogo Onsen Station, a Meiji era building that was built in 1895.

 

Matsuyama Castle

Matsuyama Castle in Matsuyama, Ehime.

Matsuyama Castle sits on top a centrally located mountain, giving visitors a wide view of the city.

It‘s one of the 12 castles in Japan that have basically remained intact over the years. It was originally finished in 1628. The tower today was built as a replacement in 1820.

The castle is only a few blocks from the Keisatsusho-Mae station on the Iyotetsu tram.

From there, you can either take a single-chair lift or a gondola up the mountain. From there, it’s a short uphill walk to the castle.

Single seat lift to Matsuyama Castle, taken by Barrett Ishida.

The lift up and down Matsuyama Castle

We went up for a visit on the last day of our trip. Being that it’s high above the city and it’s a place surrounded by nature, it’s quite peaceful.

https://www.matsuyamajo.jp/ [J]

Matsuyama City manhole cover design, taken by Barrett Ishida

Matsuyama City’s manhole cover

 

The main dish to try here is taimeshi.


Where we ate

Matsuyama Taimeshi Aka

Taimeshi is a local dish and is generally eaten in 2 different ways: 1) With the fish and rice steamed together or, 2) with raw fish eaten with hot rice and a raw egg/shoyu sauce poured over it.

We had the second version at Matsuyama Taimeshi Aka. If you have experience with authentic Japanese food, it’ll taste delicious, just like it sounds with no surprises. If not, think of it as good sashimi on rice.

This location is right in the central area of Dogo Onsen, and it’s worth stopping by to try the local cuisine.

https://gurunavi.com
MAP

 

Mikan no Ki

Ice cream at Mikan no Ki in Dogo Onsen, taken by Barrett Ishida

Because Ehime is known for its mikan oranges, there are orange-themed items everywhere. Snacks, baked goods, candies, stuffed animals, you name it.

Mikan no Ki is a shop in the Dogo Onsen shopping arcade that has orange items galore. Amongst them are local flavors of ice cream and sherbet, and they feature a range of different types of mikan orange flavors.

https://dogo.co.jp/mikan/ [J]
MAP


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