Daikanyama, Tokyo
Thought of as Tokyo’s Brooklyn, Daikanyama is a posh and stylish neighborhood near Shibuya with a laid back vibe that attracts trendy locals.
Daikanyama is a stylish and fashionable area one train stop from Shibuya
It is often thought of as Tokyo’s Brooklyn
Trendy and posh types frequent this area for its cafes, boutique shops and laid back vibe
I liked Daikanyama from the first time I visited. It’s typically not a destination for a first timer in Tokyo, but may appeal to many as it lets you get away from the hustle and bustle without going too far.
Daikanyama is located in the middle of a triangle made up of Shibuya, Ebisu and Nakameguro.
How to get there
The Tōyoko Line runs through Daikanyama Station. From Shibuya, it’s the very next stop. You can also walk as well (If it’s cherry blossom season, I suggest you do as you can pass by Sakuragaokacho) and it’ll take about 15-20 minutes. It’s also easily accessibly from Ebisu Station which is on the Yamanote Line, and it’s about a 15 minute walk from there.
About Daikanyama
Daikanyama is located in the Shibuya Ward and attracts locals on the more stylish side on weekends.
After the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1924, the Japanese government built a concrete apartment building implementing earthquake-proof design. It set the standard for the area, and most buildings there are concrete low-rises even today.
Because it’s considered a highly desirable place in the city, the area’s average rent is also one of the highest. The average rent for a 1K studio as of September 2020 is 131,800 JPY (USD $1,259 - The average for Tokyo in 2019 was USD $870). [J]
Its location puts it near Shibuya, Ebisu and Nakameguro, and it’s on the same train line as Jiyūgaoka. It often attracts similar crowds as those who frequent Aoyama, Omotesando, Marunouchi and others.
Tsutaya Books: Daikanyama T-Site
Known as a book/CD/DVD chain across Japan, Tsutaya has one of the flagship locations in Daikanyama. This location, known as Daikanyama T-Site, is one of the main destinations in the area.
Made up of 3 separate but connected buildings, Tsutaya Books is located in an area that acts somewhat like an outdoor park. It’s concept is to be “A library in the woods.”
There’s cafes and shops in the area as well, including a Starbucks in Tsutaya Books itself, and makes for a good place to grab a bite, read and get some work done.
https://store.tsite.jp/daikanyama/
Boutiques & Shops
Walking around the Daikanyama neighborhood, you’ll come across a lot of boutiques on the street and in small shopping complexes. The one above is Sarugaku.
Most boutiques tend to be on pricey side. Some brands found in the area are A.P.C., Paul Smith, Supreme, Oliver Peoples, Decente Blanc, Maison Kitsune, Japanese baby brand Familiar and others.
More than just fashion brands, you’ll find shops that are about the craft.
Okura (pictured above) is the flagship store for the Blue Blue Japan brand, which sells indigo-dyed clothing and accessories utilizing traditional Japanese techniques. Their method for dyeing that they use dates back to the 10th century, and results in artistic, retro craftsman-looking clothing. The shop itself is in an old Japanese warehouse.
Sticking with the craft vibe, I’ve seen artists actually working on the production of their clothing, like this guy washing down denim jeans in the street.
My friend who first told me about Daikanyama described it as a fashionable place where all the stylish people in Tokyo go. I think it lives up to that image quite well.
Coffee Elementary School
Coffee Elementary School is probably not a coffee shop you just happen to come by as it’s a bit separated from the main area of Daikanyama.
Started and operated by a former elementary school teacher who decided to change careers, Hisashi Yoshida got his new start at Makahara (I recommended its affiliated shop in Nakameguro) and is passionate about making quality coffee and foods.
I learned about Coffee Elementary School after seeing it featured on an episode of Buzzfeed Worth It. It has a relaxing atmosphere, is connected to a modern art gallery, and serves quality coffee.
While I didn’t get to talk to Yoshida personally, he walked us out like he did with all his customers when we left, thanked us and waved bye.
* This shop has closed
Ivy Place
Ivy Place is one of Daikanyama’s trendy eateries, located right in the Daikanyama T-Site area.
Affiliated with other trendy spots T.Y. Harbor, Cicada, The Roastery and others, Ivy Place brings a more American cafe vibe to the area.
There are three sections - the cafe, the bar and the dining area. There’s an outdoor patio space which is great for lunches, and the dimly lit vibe inside makes for a great spot to grab some drinks with friends.
Spring Valley Brewery
With a western brewery vibe to it, Spring Valley Brewery imagines a word where friends can gather and toast with their favorite beer, even non-beer drinkers.
This quest to broaden beer’s appeal and make its taste more accessible has led to beers such as On the Cloud (fruity, white wine scent), Daydream (hint of yuzu and sansho Japanese pepper), Jazzberry (raspberry).
It’s a great place to gather a group of friends and hang out for an evening.
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Nakameguro, Tokyo
Most famous for its cherry blossoms, Nakameguro is a hip, artsy neighborhood home to some great food, including "the best pizza in Tokyo,” and Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo.
Nakameguro cherry blossoms at night - Like this photo?
Nakameguro is a laid back neighborhood just a few minutes from Shibuya
It is best known for its cherry blossoms
Many hip, artsy people visit here, an area full of cafes and boutiques
The reason I first visited Nakameguro was for its famed cherry blossoms - a 2.4 mile (4km) tunnel over the Meguro River made up of about 800 trees.
This one to two week period gets really crowded, and after seeing how beautiful the flowers are at day and during the light-up festival at night, it’s easy to see why.
I’ve taken photos here a few times, and it’s in my video for top 5 photogenic cherry blossom spots in Tokyo.
Another image that comes to mind when thinking about Nakameguro is that it’s an expensive residential area. There are many cafes, boutiques and galleries that attract the artistic, fashionable and hipster from around Tokyo.
How to get there
Two train lines run through Nakameguro Station: The Tōyoko Line and the Hibiya Line. From Shibuya on the Tōyoko Line, it’s only 4 minutes. From Ebisu on the Hibiya Line, it’s only 2 minutes.
About Nakameguro
Nakameguro simply means “inside Meguro” and it is indeed located in the Meguro Ward.
The area went through a revival in the ‘90s and has become an area for artists and designers to open up studios and shops.
Meguro Ward is amongst the most expensive wards in Tokyo to live. One of the reasons, perhaps, is it’s said to be strong against earthquakes. [J]
In any case, Nakameguro is generally considered to be one of the most appealing areas in the ward, and is often compared to similarly stylish areas such as Daikanyama, Jiyūgaoka, Ebisu and Aoyama.
Two of the main areas of Nakameguro are along the Meguro River (above) and under the train tracks, also known as Nakameguro Koukashita.
Meguro Riverside
The roads along the riverside are lined with shops that range from street fashion to bakeries to crafts and cafes.
I personally haven’t shopped or ate at many but places like Mark Matsuoka Grill [MAP], Cheese Cake Johan [MAP], and green bean to bar Chocolate [MAP] seem to be amongst the popular spots.
Also along the riverside is one of the newer Nakameguro destinations, Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo. It’s one of only several of its kind in the world and the Tokyo location is 4 floors and 32,000 sq. ft. of Starbucks’ finest offerings. If you haven’t been to one, it’s worth checking out.
Nakameguro Koukashita
Under the train tracks and out to the southwest is Nakameguro Koukashita, a line of restaurants and boutiques.
It actually starts directly under the station with Tsutaya, a well known bookstore chain. Like many of their locations, their Nakameguro one is thoughtfully designed, and has spaces for browsing, talking and meeting. Also in the complex is a Starbucks and a few other cafes.
Towards the southwest are individual shops. Most are restaurants and cafes that are casual yet slightly fancy. As you get further from the station, there are more up-and-coming designer boutiques.
Exploring the areas adjacent to both of these main streets is something that I’ve found to be interesting recently.
There are numerous little artisan coffee shops and stylish eateries, but also hole-in-the-wall izakayas, vegetable stands and even fish markets like Sakana Bacca [MAP].
The cherry blossoms may have been what initially brought me to Nakameguro, but more and more, I’m feeling that there’s a whole lot more to the area that I’ve yet to experience.
For visitors, it’s a good place to dive into the stylish world of local Tokyo craft.
What we ate
Seirinkan
Seirinkan is often considered the best pizza in Tokyo, and that statement may be correct.
It’s been featured in places like CNN and enjoyed by many including David Chang, who went on to say “the best pizza in the world is in Tokyo” on his Netflix show “Ugly Delicious.”
The shop itself is in a modified factory-like building and its decor makes it somewhat of a Beatles shrine. You have to go up a pretty scary spiral staircase, but don’t let it deter you from getting a seat.
Unlike a lot of other top pizza chefs, Seirinkan’s never actually trained in Naples and he utilizes Japanese ingredients, prioritizing freshness over origin.
Now I’m generally not a crust fan, but wow, this one (and pizza as a whole) was amazing. I understand the hype.
Udatsu Sushi
Udatsu Sushi is in a residential area and is such a treat. Behind a concrete facade and wooden door is an artistically designed space with a chef that serves equally impressive sushi.
Our lunch course featured about 17 different dishes, each crafted to perfection.
The chef grew up in a family that ran a meat shop but was drawn to sushi. After gaining experience at a Michelin starred sushi restaurant, he opened this omakase. He uses two different shari (sushi rice) in order to best match with the fish, and dishes like his handroll that had ingredients such as takenoko (bamboo shoots), garlic chips and miso are playful with flavor and texture.
I have to say that I really enjoyed the experience. I’d love to go back here for a meal and I definitely recommend it.
Junkadelic
The best Mexican food I’ve had in Tokyo.
As someone who’s spent several years in California, I’ve been on a hunt to find decent Mexican food in Tokyo. So far, Junkadelic is it.
The concept is based on experiences the owner had in San Diego, and Junkadelic’s food and decor aims to mimic that vibe in Tokyo. It’s not one of those hyper-localized international places - it does make you feel like you’ve transported someplace else for a bit.
A great place when you need a break from Japanese food and are craving some Tex-Mex.
Happy Pudding Makahala
You can’t really go wrong if there’s “happy pudding” in the name right? Happy Pudding Makahala is located right off the Meguro riverside - a small shop for easy takeout.
It was originally a dessert item at a kushikatsu izakaya, but due to its popularity, the standalone shop was born. It’s a premium pudding - using high-end eggs from an area in Hyogo prefecture, near the owner’s hometown.
The custard pudding is rich and smooth, and they also have special seasonal flavors such as mango, matcha, sweet potato and more.
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Jiyugaoka, Tokyo
Considered one of Tokyo’s stylish areas, Jiyūgaoka is known for its cafes, patisseries, and boutique shopping with a little European ambience.
Jiyūgaoka is considered one of Tokyo’s fashionable, sophisticated areas by locals
Many are attracted to the area’s cafes, patisseries and boutiques
From Shibuya, Jiyūgaoka is only about a 15-minute train ride
Jiyūgaoka was someplace I always wanted to visit but didn’t until my fifth year in Tokyo. I should’ve visited earlier.
Known for its quaint and fashionable vibe, sweet shops and boutiques, it’s considered to be one of the more appealing areas in Tokyo. Locals typically categorize it as an “oshare na machi” which means stylish town, along with other areas such as Aoyama, Daikanyama and others.
How to get there
Two train lines run through Jiyūgaoka Station: The Tōyoko Line and the Ōimachi Line. The majority of people will be catching the Tōyoko Line, which takes you to Jiyūgaoka in about 15 minutes from Shibuya Station.
About Jiyugaoka
The area is located in the Meguro Ward, and in addition to being an appealing area, it is a widely considered to be a desirable place to live as well. This is reflected in the housing costs as they are typically higher than average.
Jiyūgaoka means “freedom hill” in Japanese and is named after nearby Jiyūgaoka-gakuen High School (roughly translating to “liberal hill high school”). The area began to grow rapidly after the end of WWII.
Today, Jiyūgaoka tends to attract a lot of women as there are a lot of cute cafes, sweets shops and boutiques aimed at a middle-upper-middle class lifestyle.
Buildings seemingly European-inspired can be found in the area, further increasing its appeal as a little escape from “typical Tokyo”. One of the areas mimics Venice (pictured at top), and while small, offers a little pocket of fantasy. Marie Claire Promenade (below) with its bench area in the middle of the street - something almost non-existent in Tokyo - is another.
Marie Claire Promenade
What I like about Jiyūgaoka however, is that it’s balanced.
While I do like the stylish parts of Tokyo, I also like the old alleys, tiny pubs and run down shops - and Jiyūgaoka has both.
A guy turns around and poses as I take a photo of a Jiyūgaoka alley
Stray off the promenade area and the environment changes a little. Cafes turn to small izakayas, boutiques turn to bars, and more people are focused on drinking their beers than taking photos with cute drinks.
Events
There are two main events that happen in Jiyūgaoka.
One is the Marie Claire Festival, which happens in May, where food stalls line the promenade and live performances can be enjoyed.
The second is the Jiyūgaoka Megami Festival, held in October, where over 1,000 shops and eateries open stalls and have sales.
Jiyūgaoka is rarely visited by travelers on their first trip to the city. Because of this, it makes for a great destination for anyone who wants to get a taste of Tokyo that locals like while not dealing with the masses of tourists.
Kosoan Tea House
Relaxing in a traditional Japanese setting, drinking Japanese tea. If that’s something you wouldn’t mind doing in Japan, Kosoan is a good place to do it.
Kosoan is in an old Japanese house up a hill in Jiyūgaoka, and because there are no signs, it’s easy to miss. The entrance is in the courtyard - a nicely maintained Japanese landscape. You remove your shoes as you enter and sit on tatami mats as you enjoy you tea in a peaceful atmosphere.
My recommendation: Anything matcha.
Milk Land
Drinking milk may not be on you “Things to do in Japan” list, but if you like milk, you should. Coming from the US, I’ve realized that Japanese milk is really good.
The best milk in Japan comes from Hokkaido, and Milk Land is a sort of Hokkaido Prefecture shop offering various dairy products from the region. The shop itself is cutely decorated, and there’s a two-floor cow standing in the middle of it.
They have a sampler where you can choose 3 brands of milk to taste. Try that for a rich, creamy experience. Getting some soft-serve won’t be too bad either.
Bareburger
For those that need a break from Japanese food, Bareburger is a good option. The organic burger shop from New York is very selective in where they open, and chose Jiyūgaoka for their first location in Japan.
The shop is a two-floor, indoor-outdoor space located in a small, stylish square along with a few other eateries and fashion boutiques.
Their onion rings are popular amongst Japanese, and they also feature Japan-only items such as a premium Ozaki beef burger.
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