Travel Log Barrett Ishida Travel Log Barrett Ishida

Kadokawa Culture Museum

A day trip to Kadokawa Musashino Museum, a modern museum/library designed by Kengo Kuma.

Kadokawa Musashino Museum - Barrettish
  • Located in Saitama Prefecture, the Kadokawa Culture Museum is less than an hour from Tokyo

  • Designed by Kengo Kuma, it’s both a library and museum


Quite an unexpected sight. You walk through a typical residential neighborhood and then boom - a giant space rock castle type of thing appears.

The Kadokawa Culture Museum (also known as Kadokawa Musashino Museum) was designed by Kengo Kuma, the architect who did the Tokyo Olympic Stadium amongst a lot of other notable buildings.

Enter the rock and it’s a fully functional, 5-story museum and library.

HOW TO GET THERE

The Kadokawa Culture Museum is located in Higashi-Tokorozawa, and is about a 10 minute walk from the station. From Ikebukuro Station in Tokyo, it’s about a 40-minute trip with one transfer.

Kadokawa Culture Museum

The Bookshelf Theater in the library.

The Bookshelf Theater in the library.

The Bookshelf Theater is one of the more notable parts of the museum. It’s two-stories high and they put on an impressive projection mapping show that incorporates the books on the shelf.

The library itself is modern with stools and chairs to sit in as you browse, and incorporating video at times in order to tell the story that’s in the books on the shelf.

Personally, I found it to be a good take on what libraries should do in order to modernize and stay relevant.

There are also special exhibitions and art galleries to browse through in the building.

Tickets grant you access to different parts of the museum. You can get them on their website.

https://kadcul.com/
MAP

Musashino Reiwa Shrine

Musashino Reiwa Shrine torii gate tunnel

Musashino Reiwa Shrine torii gate tunnel

One of the other notable sights in this this cultural complex is the Musashino Reiwa Shrine.

It represents Reiwa, which is the current period on the Japanese calendar, so everything is done in a very futuristic way. From the minimalistic water fountains, to the sharp-edged torii gate tunnel, to the illuminated main torii gate, it’s interesting to see a modern take on Japanese shrines.

Musashino Reiwa Shrine

Musashino Reiwa Shrine

https://musashinoreiwa.jp [J]
MAP

Check out my video of my day trip here and to Kawagoe.

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Kawagoe

A day trip to Kawagoe, where its Warehouse District still retains the look of the Edo Period.

Bell Tower in Kawagoe
  • Located in Saitama Prefecture, Kawagoe is less than an hour from Tokyo

  • The Warehouse District has retained the look of the old Edo Period

  • Local delicacies include unagi (broiled eel) and sweet potato - see bottom


When most think about immersing themselves in “old Japan”, they think about places like Kyoto or Kanazawa, maybe an onsen town. Kawagoe is another area that provides that experience.

We took a day trip here to check out their Warehouse District.

I made a video of the trip in case you’re interested.

How to get there

Kawagoe is located in Saitama Prefecture, which neighbors Tokyo, so it’s quite accessible. An easy way to get there, and the route we took, was catching the Fukutoshin train from Meiji-jingumae Station in Harajuku.

It arrives at Kawagoe Station in about 50 minutes. Some trains on this route require you to transfer at Ikebukuro Station, but some are direct.

Old buildings around the Warehouse District in Kawagoe - Barrettish

Kawagoe is visually stunning. The city was said to be big for trade during the Edo Period, which was between 1603-1867. Many merchants became wealthy and built their warehouses and shops in the Kurazukuri style.

“Edo” was what Tokyo used to be called, and because a lot of these old warehouse buildings in the central area survived and are largely unchanged, the area became known as “Koedo”, or Little Edo.

Where we went

Kurazukuri Street

Kurazukuri Street in Kawagoe’s Warehouse District

Kurazukuri Street in Kawagoe’s Warehouse District

Kurazukuri Street refers to the style in which the buildings are built in, and is the central part of the city’s Warehouse District.

It’s amazing to see these buildings lined up, spanning the distance, and knowing they’re authentically real.

Many of them are selling Japanese goods, such as knives, or a light grab-and-go type of snack. A lot of those snacks are based around sweet potato, something Kawagoe is known for.

What is unfortunate about this area, though, is that car traffic isn’t blocked off. While the neighborhood and buildings transport you back in time, the constant flow of cars on the road kind of take you out of it.

MAP

The Starbucks in the Kawagoe Warehouse District blends well into the neighborhood

The Starbucks in the Kawagoe Warehouse District blends well into the neighborhood

Taisho-roman Street

Taisho-Roman Street

Taisho-Roman Street

Taisho Roman Street is a walking street lined with buildings that reflect the Taisho Period between 1912-1926.

It’s just a short walking distance from both the Warehouse District and Kawagoe Station, and there are a bunch of shops selling snacks and sweets, as well as cafes such as the coffee shop pictured above.

MAP

Kashiya Yokocho (Candy Alley)

Kashiya Yokocho (Candy Alley) in Kawagoe’s Warehouse District

Kashiya Yokocho (Candy Alley) in Kawagoe’s Warehouse District

Kashiya Yokocho is a short, L-shaped walking alley of shops selling candies and snacks. Some are traditional snacks, while others are more modern and reflect those you would find at festivals, such as chocolate-dipped bananas.

MAP

Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine

Tunnel of Ema wooden prayer plaques at Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine

Tunnel of Ema wooden prayer plaques at Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine

Said to be around 1,500 years old, Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine is a Shinto shrine where five deities are enshrined. It’s known for helping with matchmaking and relationships.

During the summer, a lot of fuurin, or glass wind chimes are set up around the shrine’s grounds, and they provide a relaxing sound whenever the wind blows.

While that was nice to experience, we unfortunately weren’t able to see the cherry blossoms in the Shingashi River behind the shrine, which is really popular in the spring.

MAP

We visited in August which I don’t really recommend because it was hot… extremely hot. It does, however, mean that unagi (broiled eel) is in season, a dish that Kawagoe is known for.

Where we ate

 

Ogatou

Unagi (broiled eel) is one of Kawagoe’s specialty foods, and Ogatou is one of several restaurants in the area with high reviews.

The shop is located in an old building that matches the environment, and has been around since 1918. The menu is simple, just pick how you want your unagi served.

I decided to get the Unaju Matsu, which is the largest size with 2 slices on top of rice and another slice in the middle of the rice below. Fluffy, moist, and tasty, especially with the slight taste of char from the fire.

https://www.ogatou.jp [J]
MAP

 

Aburi Coffee

A homey coffee shop just off the main road. Aburi Coffee gets its name from the French word abri, which means shelter, and they aim to provide a shelter for people to retreat to and relax.

They accomplish this very well and provide some delicious iced coffee. You know you’re in the right place when you walk in and there are huge Yama Glass drippers that look like they’re from a science lab slow dripping future cups of coffee.

http://abri.boo.jp [J]
MAP

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Nikkō

A weekend trip to Nikko, one of the closest UNESCO World Heritage spots to Tokyo.

Shinkyo Bridge in Nikko

Shinkyo Bridge in Nikko

One of the closest UNESCO World Heritage spots to Tokyo, the Nikkō Tōshō-gū shrine, Futarasan Shrine and Rinnō-ji are amongst the most famous sights in Japan.

We stayed the weekend at Hoshino Resorts KAI Kinugawa, a nice ryokan and hot springs by one of Japan’s most well known onsen resort brands.

HOW TO GET THERE

Because Nikkō is relatively close to Tokyo, it’s quite accessible. The fastest way to get to Nikkō by train is to catch the Kegon Limited Express train from Asakusa to Tobu Nikkō station. It takes about 2 hours. There are a couple other train options for that route as well as a Nikko pass for foreign tourists. There’s also the JR Nikkō Limited Express from Shinjuku to Tobu Nikkō station.

Entrance torii gate to the Tosho-gu shrine.

Entrance torii gate to the Tosho-gu shrine.

One of the most recognizable sights in Nikkō is the Shinkyo Bridge (pictured at the top) [Map]. Its red, arched shape above clear blue waters and in front of the green mountainside makes for quite a picturesque “Japan” photo.

Across the street are the entrances to the Tōshō-gū shrine area.

NIKKO TOSHO-GU SHRINE

After seeing a lot of shrines around Japan, many of them begin to kind of blend together and look pretty similar. It does for me, at least. I found that Tōshō-gū, however, is not one of those.

Karamon at Nikko Tosho-gu shrine

Karamon at Nikko Tosho-gu shrine

The shrine, dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu and initially built in 1617, separates itself from others due to its patterned design and color combinations. Reds, greens and blacks are used in intricate details, and abundant amounts of gold really makes the shrine pop.

Intricate details in the decorations at Tosho-gu shrine

Inside the shrine itself, there’s a room where everyone gathers for a prayer (be prepared to take your shoes off). While I didn’t quite understand what was going on, a chant was done and it was interesting to experience.

Tōshō-gū is also known for its wood carvings, one of which is the three wise monkeys demonstrating “Hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil.” It’s located just above a building doorway and almost looks a little comical looking. Another famous carving is the “Nemuri-neko” or sleepy cat. It attracts crowds as people line up to walk through the doorway that it’s over, but it probably won’t live up to the hype for the average person who doesn’t know much about it.

Five-story pagoda at Nikkō Tōshō-gū

Five-story pagoda at Nikkō Tōshō-gū

https://www.toshogu.jp
Map

We spent around an hour or so inside the shrine itself, and another hour or two walking around the shrine grounds and nearby town where we had a Japanese kaiseki lunch featuring food that Nikko is known for (information below). Many of the shops in the area have a lot of history to them, range from antique shops to Japanese confectionary shops, and some of them have quite photogenic signs and storefronts.

The next day, we explored a little bit north of the Tōshō-gū area.

RYUOKYO 

Ryūōkyō, known for Ryūōkyō Canyon, is a small hot springs town area.

Nijiminotaki Falls

Nijiminotaki Falls

Ryūōkyō’s natural scenery is something to see. While we weren’t up for any of the long hikes and honestly, didn’t have time to check out much, we were able to see the Nijiminotaki Falls [Map] and hike down to the Kinugawa River below.

The Kinugawa River waters are an amazing clear, greenish blue color. Its shape and the surrounding scenery gave the area its name, Ryūōkyō, with “Ryūō” referencing a dragon.

Nikkō also has good food. Soba, yuba (tofu skin) and even shave ice are some of the foods that the area is known for. While we didn’t get to try the soba, I recommend the yuba and shave ice places that we went to.

 

Fudan Kaiseki Nagomi chaya

One of the more popular restaurants in Nikkō near Tōshō-gū shrine is Fudan Kaiseki Nagomi Chaya, and they specialize in yuba. We went for a kaiseki yuba lunch course that consisted of about 9 dishes with several of them incorporating either yuba or tofu. It’s a small shop with a Japanese vibe, some of the tables have floor seating, and service is really good. This a great place to stop for some authentic Nikkō specialties.

http://fudankaisekinagomichaya.food97.com
Map

Ryūōkyō Shokudo

Nikkō’s water is quite clean, and they farm some of it into sheets of ice. Some of those clear sheets are sliced up, shaved and turned into shave ice at shops in the area. The water’s purity means you won’t get brain freeze, according to the staff at Ryūōkyō Shokudo. I’m not sure about that, but for the record, I tried to give myself brain freeze after being told that and failed. Shave ice here was a refreshing stop after hiking back up from the Kinugawa River nearby.

Map

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Kyoto: Temples & Shrines

Good at any time of year, Kyoto is best known for its temples and shrines. Here are some to definitely see.

Despite having been to Kyoto several times, it has never gotten old. For a foreign traveler, it represents "Japan," as the former capital is full of historic temples and shrines. 

Fall is the ideal season - and my favorite - to travel to Kyoto, especially if the fall leaves are peak in color. Seeing the temples and shrines at that time of year surrounded by the reds, oranges and yellows is one of the most beautiful sights in the country. 

There are so many historic sights to see in Kyoto that you can rule out seeing them all. Not going to happen. But here are some must sees temples and shrines:

Kinkaku-ji

Kinkakuji temple in Kyoto

Kinkaku-ji, the famous "Golden Pavilion," sits quietly surrounded by water and the area around it has the same vibe as well (besides the photo area in front of it). Even with the flood of tourists storming here, it sill manages to be a pretty peaceful place.

Fall leaves in the gardens at Kinkakuji temple in Kyoto

http://www.shokoku-ji.jp [J]

 

Kiyomizu-dera

Fall leaves at Kiyomizudera in Kyoto - [BUY PRINT - Enter KYOTOFALL for 10% off]

Fall leaves at Kiyomizudera in Kyoto

Kiyomizu-dera sits on top a hill surrounded by Japanese confectionary shops, restaurants and crafts. The temple's main hall is known for it being only built from wood.

Being one of the more popular attractions in the city, it gets quite crowded. Towards the end of the walk through, there are three waterfalls that you can drink from, each meant to help you in a different area of life: Health, longevity and success in studies.

During the fall, the temple does a light-up at night. The line goes quite a ways down the street but if the leaves are at peak, make sure you suck it up and wait. It's absolutely worth it.

Fall leaves at Kiyomizudera in Kyoto - [BUY PRINT - Enter KYOTOFALL for 10% off]

Fall leaves at Kiyomizudera in Kyoto

 

Fushimi-inari

Path at Fushimi Inari shrine in Kyoto

Fushimi-inari Taisha. This shrine's tunnel of red gates has become one of the iconic views of Japan in recent years.

It's a 15-minute train ride from Kyoto Station, and is right next to Inari Station. The afternoon is the best time to visit since the light shines through the gates to create a beautiful effect.

The tunnel of gates go up a long ways and while it's a good hike, it's not necessary to go all the way up.

The walk at Fushimi Inari shrine in Kyoto
 

Heian-jingu

Heian shrine in Kyoto

Heian-jingu [J] stands out due to it's white and orange design. You can see it right when you enter, but make sure you take a walk in the garden as well.

Nearby is the Philosopher's Walk, a path named after a philosopher, Kintaro Nishida, and full of sights that can invoke deep thoughts. Take a walk through the path when you're done with the shrine.

Landscape at Heian shrine in Kyoto

http://www.heianjingu.or.jp [J]

 

Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji

Fall leaves at Eikan-do Zenrin-ji

While there is a temple, Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji is most known for its natural surroundings. It's most beautiful in the fall, and during the peak period, "beautiful" is an understatement. The variety of colors and their vibrance are incredible.

There are a more temples and shrines to see in Kyoto, and some may enjoy different ones from this list. None will disappoint. Be sure to check out other sights to see in Kyoto as well if you're in town. 

http://www.eikando.or.jp

Fall leaves at Eikan-do Zenrin-ji at night

Fall leaves at Eikan-do Zenrin-ji at night


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Nara

A cultural day-trip from Kyoto and Osaka, Nara is full of history and... deer.

Nara is a must do day trip if you're staying in Kyoto or Osaka. It's full of historic buildings and has the free roaming deer that has become popular amongst tourists. The deer has even become the city's official mascot, named Sento-kun.

You can easily get to Nara from Kyoto and Osaka stations, ending at Kintentsu-Nara station. I've never actually stayed over, but I've found that a trip out to Nara does require a full day.

Nara Park is a short walk from the station, and there will be small cafes and shops selling Japanese items as you get closer to the park. I recommend making sure you check out Kōfuku-ji, Kasugataisha and Tōdai-ji, all of which are historic.

Kōfuku-ji

Kōfuku-ji

Kasugataisha

Kasugataisha

Kasugataisha
The inside of Tōdai-ji

The inside of Tōdai-ji

Tōdai-ji is probably the most famous in the area. It's a few hundred yen to enter (depends on which ticket you buy, there's also a museum). One of the interesting activities on the inside is attempting to go through a small square in one of the wooden pillars. Little kids have no problems but I haven't taken the risk - it's tiny!

There are places scattered around the park that sell senbei (Japanese rice crackers) for the deer. You can bow to the deer and after they bow back, feed them. You can get extremely close and personal with them as they are accustomed to interacting with people, but some of them can get aggressive at times and try to grab that senbei out of your hand. I'm sure they come across people who tease them with it.


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